I've converted all my rear lights to LED on my F2 in part to cut down on electrical draw. I still have the stock headlight and front signal/running lights. I'm working on adding some extra amber signal LEDs to the front, but am stumped on the headlight thing. I'm also not a rich guy, so budget is important.

I know there are the kits with the HID/cool white-blue light but apart from varying prices, I think the draw is still the same -- up to 55 watts on high beam. And I've read varying reviews that are pretty split on whether they are actually brighter -- they just are a far cooler/bluer light.

A) Are HID kits the only option for such bulbs or can one just buy a brighter bulb?

B) Are there any LED based headlight bulb options? My guess is nyet, but I may be wrong--there are so many different kind of LED type out now, from the old dome style, to SMD, COB, etc.

Thanks for your suggestions and input.

~ Philip

 

Bump.

 

Just go HID. A proper HID kit with ballast etc. Those "Xenon Blue" bulbs are trash. One can be had on ebay for under $40. I got a 35W 6000K kit and it is MUCH brighter than stock. I'd go 4300K or 5000K, though. More white and blue.

 

Thanks for reply. I'll check out eBay, then if I have questions, I'll come back.

 

Of the two options you stated installing the HID kit would be easier. When I installed my 35w 6000k kit the hardest part was where to mount the ballast near the instrument cluster.
I agree with CorruptFile, I would prefer a "not so blue" color temperature and the 5000k or a touch lower I think would be a better choice.
One potential problem with HID lighting is that the ballasts do not like to have power applied, then removed, then applied again. It dramatically shortens their lifespan. Your bike will do this as when you turn the key it puts power to the headlamp, when you press START it removes power, then once your bike starts then power is applied again.
The way I got around this was to install a voltage sensitive relay on the 12vdc power lead, and it will only click ON when the bike is running and the charging system is putting out above 13.5 volts.

Prior to my HID lighting I was running regular H4 bulbs but in a 100/55w or a 100/90w flavor. Of course with this option it requires rewiring the headlamp wires, installing a fused relay or SSR's to switch between HI & LO beam, and replacing the stock regulator / rectifier with one that can handle the current load. The upside was those 100 watt bulbs light things up really well...

Both end up about the same cost, one's is a bit easier though.

Just my two cents...

 

Thanks for your detailed input -- particularly the ballast "drain" or lifespan thing. For now, I'm going to hold off getting a kit (part financial reasons). If and when I get one, I'll probably go for a 6000k - neutral "diamond" white.

My research has also yielded that bi-Xenons won't solve my less-draw problem (at least 55 watts, same as halogen); the other option is the 1-Xenon for regular low-beam riding with a halogen for hi-beam. Advantage of the second one is I can find <35 watts ones like this, which is a nice 20 watts reduction.

If and when I finally decide to go ahead, I'd appreciate where + specs to match + how much it would cost to get what you suggested as your work-around solution for the ballast issue:

"....The way I got around this was to install a voltage sensitive relay on the 12vdc power lead, and it will only click ON when the bike is running and the charging system is putting out above 13.5 volts"

No rush on reply, do so at your leisure.
Thanks.

 

There are a ton of HID options out there, the one I went with was a SpeedMetal H4 kit from CycleGear. What's cool about this one is that there is only a single bulb and when you turn on the HIGH beam the bulb pulls back just a bit in it's socket to change the focus point in the reflector. It seems to work fairly well though I did have to reAdjust the aim of my headlight after putting it in.

There are also many ways to keep the lamp from sparking till the voltage is stable, I've read about monitoring the oil pressure switch, or a latching relay that the rider turns ON when ready for the light to be ON. The voltage sensitive relay seemed the easiest to me as once it's installed I don't have to think about it.
There's a company named JatronX that makes them and sells them on fleaBay.
Do a search on "JatronX Voltage Sensitive Latching Relay" and they'll come right up.

Steve

 

35W kit is more than enough.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-mecha...stalls-143337/
I think I have a video on that thread about the oil pressure relay mod.

 

i have the CREE LED lights in mine, no ballasts and alot less amp draw but very bright i got them on ebay for like 49 for the set they are 6000k the Diamond white. With the LEDs they tend to measure thier power in Lumens not watts, mine are 1600 Lumens and they look the exact same as the 55Watt HID in my Scion. Although on the F2 is has one light for High and Low beam the LEDs are only one or the other they dont currently have a high/low LED bulb that i have seen yet. But in the LEDs defense i switched my F3 from HID to LED and it looked the same i never use the high setting anyway so it doesnt bother me the light output from the LED is such that you really dont need a high setting. Dont waste your money on the bi-xeon stuff its basiclly a HID lowbeam and a regular bulb for highbeam my friend had one and we removed it in favor of the LED. The LEDs also hit peak power output 1 second after turn on, the Hid may take up to 90Seconds.

 

Thanks guys for further info. I'll bookmark this thread for when I'm ready to dive into this. I'm deep in an other DIY project for my bike and so want to at least get the job done before I start another one. And chill on spending money for my bike for about a month--if I can cuz it can addictive - lol.