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@cbrbike...Wow, Thanks so much for your detailed response. You have provided me with some invaluable insights & information.
I took a leap of faith (well, kinda more a calculated risk, my '03 Alfa147 2.0 16V'03 has the TS (twinspark) system, so has 2 sets of plugs per cylinder.
Long & short of it, the smaller set of plugs are the Iridium ones that have an extremely long working life & extremely reliable, so after looking up info on the net, I see these plugs are used in some bikes.
Pulled the plugs, cleaned them a little, popped them into my CBR & put the coils & leads back in their positions.
I tried start & she started jumping to life, missed a bit & soon died.
But of course, I had to put the tank back to connect the fuel again & after that she was running smoothly (well, 500 times better than before....)
Ok, so, the bike IS running atm (quite nicely, in fact)
My opinion is, by the looks of some of the posts & threads, these early bikes do seem to suffer from poor spark generation, that said maybe replacing an pulse generator, or a couple of coils or new HT leads & (heaven forbid) another new set of plugs (again) might result in slightly better spark, am I right or wrong?
At the end of the day, i think the fact that the bike (at least for now), is starting & running reliably....
HAPPY DAYS
p.s all I need to do now, is put the old (new) bike plugs into te Alfa & hope she doesn't mind too much...god help me
12v going to coils via black/white (1&4 or 2/3, which ever it is)& black/yellow (for the other coil) wires.
The yellow/blue & blue/yellow are the 'signal' wires, not so? actually both 12V lines are Black/White lines. sometimes it looks like Black/Yellow due to discoloration.
Yes. Blue/Yellow ( 2&3) and Yellow/Blue ( 1&4) are the ground paths of those two coils via your ECU. here's a diagram i found from google for CBR600 F2
have tried to test this lot, with not too much success. check the battery voltage of those two Black/White lines at the ignition coils
With the coils removed, & only loom-side connectors exposed, I can get test light to light on the two black wires, the other wires aren't doing Anything....
surely they should show the 'pulse' when swinging the motor with test light going on & off as per spark (or not?) Blue/Yellow and Yellow/Blue wires act as ground paths for your coils. it goes straight to the ECU. i doubt you can check it that way. you have to have a Peak Voltage Adapter to check the coils or a multimeter which is capable of doing that operation.
To add onto what CBRBike said, the Yellow/Blue and Blue/Yellow wires do provide the ground side to the coils. While the coils are grounded, the coils create a magnetic field. When the ECU removes the ground from the Y/B or B/Y wires, the magnetic field collapses. It is the process of this magnetic field collapse that the high voltage is induced into the secondary windings and generating the spark. This can be tested simply by providing 12v to the Black/White wire of one of the coils and grounding the associated Y/B or B/Y wire. (I'd do that with electrically insulated pliers sufficient to withstand several kilo-volts) When you remove the Y/B wire from ground, the spark will happen. Make sure you're not touching the high voltage lead during that time.
The job of the Pulse Generator is to tell the ECU when to remove the ground from each coil and thereby generating the spark.
@Sean Churchill hi glad it shows a good improvement.
but honestly i wouldn't use any other spark plug apart from what is recommended. just for the peace of mind.
you were on the right track. i suggest to use the recommended plugs and get the readings above. so hopefully you will be able to diagnose the problem.
Evening all, just little 'heads up'...
I've ordered a set of proper NGK 9 CR9EH1X9 iridium plugs. R180 ea (R700 for the lot).
will be here early next week....
Plugs....sorted
Hey guys, (Idodirt & Cbrbike). Poor spark update...
I got the correct (CR9EHix9) iridium NGK's & fitted them, (yes, put my car's plugs back too..).
Purring like a Pussycat....
But, I still say these CBR's (maybe just mine, for her age 30yrs) have **** poor spark .
Thanks for ya'll help,
much appreciated
Just to pick your brains quick...(unrelated)
can you run a bike's Cdi (start & run the engine) with the red/black wire (for the Excitor coil) connected to the normal charge coils (yellow & white) instead, If the Excitor coil itself has failed (as it usually does in small single pot motors).
The way I see it, the CDI runs off (up to) 400 v But the actual charge being sent to the CDI is (as I understand it off the 'Net) only like 50 volts (apparently?).
is this not what could be expected from the other charge coils together too?
(Or at least ball-park)
just a thought, cos I'm struggling a bit here with a small quad stator/starting issue.
thought, maybe it could work that way, just to test the motor to see if it's worth while fixing, or buying.
Lemme know any thoughts please
)
