Went ahead and tested battery voltage at 5,000 rpm. Voltage didn't move stuck around 12.5 volts

.5 between all of them sounds good. Check each of the three against the body of the stator to check for shorts. My opinion is that stators rarely go bad. I've never replaced one yet. I'd stick with the stock honda oem one, unless you know it's bad. If it is, then I'd probably just get a used oem one. Cheap and easy.


Reg/rec's on the other hand go bad all the time. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. They were epoxy filled and they flat out suck.


Honda update the reg/rec with a completely new part. It has fins. It's plug and play and the new one is bulletproof. I've put at least a dozen in and I've never seem the new ones fail. That's what I always get. They are about $140, I posted the part number earlier. I really dislike fixing things twice especially electrical ****.


Most aftermarket reg/rec are cheap junk. There are a bunch of OEM looking knockoff on ebay too, also junk. There are some other ones that are ok, but not all are plug and play. And since most people don't know how to properly wire stuff, that usually isn't a good route. I frequently end up fixing other peoples fixes.



You really don't need any aftermarket stuff, unless you are running high amp heating gear or have a mini-fridge on your bike.

What your reading is the battery voltage. Most of the time this means the reg/rec is shorted and not letting the charge through.



I'd check the stator just because.
Put a new reg/rec in.
Charge the battery.
Fire it up again and check the voltages
I'd be about 90% sure you'd find them good after this.

Haha Phil Id be lost without you. I went ahead and did the ac voltage test as outlined in the sticky and the stator checked out fine. Seems like you are correct about the rectifier being the issue!

I did not know that Honda dumped the old style R/R and went with a newer style Shindengen. If the only part available would have been the old style, then I'd have recommended a trip to Roadstercycle. They sell only the real Shindengen R/R's and decent wiring. But with the newer style and seeing how it's plug-n-play, well...

Still you have some repair work to do on the wiring. And the rectifier being bad is a long way from a surprise.

FWIW, one thread is a better idea than two. Keeps questions and answers in a single easy-to-find place.

Okay so today I replaced the rectifier with a new style OEM Honda rectifier. I tested the unit by measuring the voltage at the battery. It seemed to be working as expected, when the throttle was rolled on the voltage increased as it was supposed to. Thinking it was fixed I decide to take it for a ride and it died after about a 1/4 mile. What other things could be causing this? I am going to have my battery tested tomorrow but was hoping to get some guidance on what else this could be? Thanks!

That sucks. The stator checked good. You put a new reg/rec in.


So other things to check:
1. Battery - may have internal intermittent short. If it's more than a couple years old, it might be worth just replacing it.
2. Loose connectors - double check everything you've touched recently.

3. Loose ground wires or corrosion at ground points on frame or at battery terminal.

4. Wires worn (or mice chewing) through somewhere grounding to the frame.
5. Demonic possession - you'll need a priest.

Did you test the voltage again after the bike died? Were you able to restart it after it died? That may help identify if it's the battery. If you put it on a battery charge for a while, would it start then?

1. The Battery is from 4/2014. I took it to autozone where they tested it. They said it checked out but what i found odd is the battery says 120 CCA but tested at 294. Could that be an issue?
2. Ive checked everything I touched but ill lok again
3/4. I guess Ill have to look over the harness
5. I believe this to be the most likely cause

I would just replace the battery. It's 4 years old. Electrical problems like this can be a real bitch. It doesn't happen often, but it is possible that one bad component takes out another. A bad battery can take out a reg/rec and a bad reg/rec can fry a battery. And electrical stuff can test good and then still fail intermittently under load/heat/vibration. I had one reg/rec that would work great for 10 minutes until it got hot and then just stop working. Once it cooled down, it would work just fine again.



So I'd just get a new battery.
Then retest the voltages with the new battery and make sure it's charging.
If you go for a ride, take the volt meter with you.