1994 CBR600F2 Not Holding charge - CBR Forum - Enthusiast forums for Honda CBR Owners


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Old 06-14-2018, 07:08 PM
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Default 1994 CBR600F2 Not Holding charge

So my Cbr will die on me while riding. I know the stator and rectifier are common issues on this bike and that will be the first suggested fix but I have already replaced those yesterday as well as replaced the battery today. Let me give a run down of how the bikes been since replacing that rectifier and stator. Immediately after replacing them I took the bike for a ride for about an hour and it was fine. Later that evening I tried to take the bike out and only made it a street away before the bike died and needed a jumpstart. Then today I replaced the battery and went to take it for a ride but only made it two streets before it died. There it started under its own power but then died again two streets later and needed a jumpstart. It is now sitting in my drive way and will not start. When I turn the key to the on position the dash shows dim lights that then fade to off. Any suggestions as to what could be causing this?
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:39 PM
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It sounds like you've just been replacing things, without actually trying to figure out what is wrong.

My first thought is your replacement battery is bad or not fully charged. Even with a reg that isn't charging, you should be able to run off the battery for a while. Since your bike is dying so quickly, I'd check the battery first.

This is what I'd do. Remove the battery, put it on a charger overnight, check it the next day with a volt meter, try to make sure it's good first.
Second, put it back in the bike if good. Start the bike and measure the voltage at idle, 2k and 5k and report back the readings. They should be close to battery, 14.3v at 2k and drop to 13.8v or so at about 5k.

You also didn't say what you replace all those parts with. Many aftermarket reg and stator are cheap and fail quickly or never work at all. Reg's are known to go bad and I've always replace them with the new style OEM Honda. I've never had to replace one twice. The new ones are rock solid. It's much more rare that a stator goes back. I'd double check your old one with an ohm meter and determine if it good or not.
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:46 PM
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Haha I understand it sounds like Ive been replacing things without testing but if you take a look at my other thread you can see a picture of my burnt rectifier plug. Also the battery was fully charged when the bike was started today but I have put it on a tender and will check tomorrow as you suggested. As to your comment about cheap parts you are 100% correct. I ordered from Caltric off ebay but it seems this was a bad idea. Ill buy a multimeter tomorrow and do the test you have suggested. Thank you for taking the time to help!
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Old 06-14-2018, 09:15 PM
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Lol, didn't realize that the other thread was yours. Even though I answered that one too. What can I say, I've got the attention span of a goldfish some days.


Here's the new (#31600-mv4-010) vs old:

https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f4...ne-pic-128975/
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Old 06-15-2018, 03:19 PM
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I know this is a bit of a big ask but does anyone have a step-by-step guide to testing the stator and rectifier. I bought a multimeter today but have honestly never used one before .I have found a couple write ups on here but nothing with pictures. Thanks!
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Old 06-15-2018, 03:52 PM
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Okay so I did a test after watching this
. Im not very handy with a multimeter as stated above so I did the test were the meter makes the beeping sound. I tested the new stator I put in and it made no beep. I tested where it plugs in to the bike and it beeped. Does this mean the stator is bad? Sorry for the poor description.
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:21 PM
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A multimeter is one of the best tools you can own. It's well worth learning to use it. Find some vids on youtube will help get you some of the basic function.

What you were doing was testing continuity (beeping). It just checks to see if there is an electrical path from one place to another. This is a real basic test.

A better test is to measure resistance (ohms - the horseshoe setting). That will not only tell you if a path exists but how much resistance is there too. Often things will have continuity (when they blow and short out), but by measuring resistance again what a manual says, you can tell if it's bad or not.

So on to your problem. If you tested the stator correctly, the no beep might be a bad sign. I'm not sure how many wires an F2 stator has or which ones you tested. But some combinations will beep and some won't. You have to know which ones you are testing. The video you posted is good, but I don't think that is an F2 stator. Can you post a pic of your stator?

Checking continuity at the plug of the bike won't tell you anything. It's great for single wires or disconnected parts, but you can't use it on a whole bike.

And if you can check the voltages at different rpms, that would be helpful too. It's one of the first things I do when trying to fix an F2 charging system problem. And I've worked on plenty.
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:29 PM
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Thanks for replying again Phil! Im gonna do some more test, I also checked the connection from the R/R plug to the battery and that was good but ill do some more testing. I actually private messaged you asking for brand recommendations. For stators and rectifiers would you recommend electrosport or ricks? Or perhaps a different brand, preferably something plug and play. Thanks again!
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:29 PM
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I think the F2's have 3 wire stators. I'll dig through my tubs later and look for one of the extras I've got. But for now, this vid may help you test yours.


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Old 06-16-2018, 12:41 PM
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So it is a 3-wire stator and I did the ohms test you suggested nad get .5 between all of them. Perhaps the rectifier is junk? Hate to ask again but what brand replacements would you recommend?
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