Ok, sorry for the exhaust question.

How about timing? What are the pros and cons of adjusting the timing? Is this a shop only procedure you recommend or a DIY.

Is this a good modification to begin with or do you suggestion something else? What are some of the common mods you perform to new stock bike?

 

Hey Don, the only cons to cam timing are if it's done incorrectly which pretty much answers your second question as well. If you've never done it, source someone who can. Don't let a buddy who "thinks" he can do it prove himself wrong on your pride and joy. If you can't find anyone you trust give me a call. Though we don't actually endorse anyone, I may be able to give you some numbers of shops in your area that can help you make a more informed decision.

 

Sorry Don, I forgot the rest of your question [8D] I assume you meant performance mods but it really depends on what you plan to use the bike for. Let me know if it will be used for road racing, drags, daily driver, etc. and I'll let you know my thoughts on what you might benefit from.

Happy Holidays!

 

I'm one of the few... actually probably the one here that thinks the 600RR kicks *** the way it is. Then again... I ride with cruiser most of the time. We have a lot of members that argue back and forth about mods, so I thought I'd try to use some of your expert experience to clear some of it up.

What I was basically asking...with timing, would that be a better way to cure some of the low end power the 600 is hungry for? If so, how much should you expect a shop to charge?

We have a few track people here, but for the most part the bikes are daily rides. So what would be the starting point for the mods? All I have done so far is a -1 upfront, with a -2 waiting so I can judge the -1 first. Next, I'm looking at going with a PCIII and slip on. Have you heard anything about the laser extreme slip on? I plan on taking my bike as is right now to a local shop for a dyno run ... $60 for the base line. Then do the PCIII with slip-on in spring and back to the dyno to see what changed. Let me know your thoughts on this.

Don't worry about the timing, my dad is/was a mechanic. I have rebuilt engines with him and never touched the timing... that's better left up to experience.

 

For the most part, low end grunt is most readily enhanced by two things - CC's via bore, stroke, or both and gearing. You seem to have a pretty good handle on it already but for those who don't... For a daily driver, the easiest and cheapest mod is gearing. Let's say your bike tops out at an honest 160. On a daily driver how often are you buzzing it up that fast? It's more likely that you'll be running it up to 120 on occasion and then (I hope) backing it down. The point is, most of you will NEVER notice the 5-12mph you may lose from a sensible gearing change like 1 down in front, 2 up in rear.

As far as cam sprockets, yes, you can adjust them for more low end. They too are cheap performance. Sounds like you know of a shop with a dyno so have them install them and dial them in for you.

Also, some of you may want to look into this but I think Honda's fuel injection is self correcting so adding a PC with you're slip-on may not be necesarry. Parts Unlimited sells a O2 Sensor Eliminator for about 20.00 and that may be all you'll need. Add a full system (not worth the expense for the street) and that could change but with a slip-on you can probably save your cash.

 

Wow.. Do you know how many times I have brought the subject up about the intelligent FI? With my limited knowledge of engines/performance mods, I've often asked why we would have to remap the FI with a filter and slip-on if the FI regulates itself. Now an O2 sensor eliminator, can you explain more about why that is needed. Just so my idiot brain follows.

 

What he said

Jay

 

I'm not sure for the RRs, but as far as the F4is, the O2 sensor (only in cali bikes) only works when the bike is at a cruising RPM. it picks up the a/f in the exhaust and then tells the ECU to lean out the mixture. it doesn't not tell the ECU to change the a/f any other time (as in cars, etc.), like for more fuel, etc. this may also be the case for RRs.

do not go -2 in the front. your chain will wear out much faster. if you want, you should change the gearing in the rear by upping it +2 or +3.

 

Adding the PCIII is optional with most mods. Having ridden bikes with and without them I can say that the PC's do make the bike smoother ... a lot smoother. So while your bike will most likely run fine with just a slip on and filter change, the PC can make it more user friendly. And if you spend the extra money to get it custom mapped you can squeeze out some more power.

Unfortunately this is a topic that is fiercely debated. Seems like advertising works and some peeps believe ya just have to have thePC for the bike to operate correctly. To me the PC is a great mod to do and their tech guys are very helpful if you have a problem. I'll also add that the FI on current bikes is so far advanced over just 5 years ago that it isn't as big a deal as it used to be.

If you do have the cam sprockets changed and degreed then you'll want a PCIII because you can change timing with it. By "you" I mean the dyno guy. I personally wouldn't touch the timing #'s on the map for fear I'd blow something up

 

You cannot adjust ignition timing with a PC3usb. You can only add or subtract fuel. To adjust timing on the 600rr/1000rr you need something like the newly released Dynojet Ignition module, which is an ADD-ON to your existing Power Commander unit.
They are claiming 4-8hp just from the ignition, but look at the charts... it's more like 1-2hp throughout 95% of the rev range. As an added bonus, the ignition module will now allow the dynojet quickshifter to work properly on the 8 injector bikes!