My 2002 F4i is getting the rattle around 5000-5500 RPMS and I'm getting really tired of it. My question is which do you suggest that I put in my bike. I don't want to get another stock cct and have to replace it after a few thousand miles so I think the APE cct would be the way to go, but how often would I have to check the tension? Would it be one thing that I should check before every ride or just when I change my oil? I would just like to know what you guys would suggest. Thanks in advance

-Jesse-

 

Our tensioners for the Honda 600 are considered a "must do" mod. The chain tension eould only have to be check when tune ups are done.

Jay

 

DUMB QUESTION: What exactly does the CCT do and why is it a "must do mod"? I'm also assuming this should be done by a mechanic?

Please forgive me, I don't know a whole heck of a lot about the inner workings of my bike... all I know is where to put the gas in! Well I know more than that, but chain tensioners I know nothing about.

Thanks, Joe

 

the CCT is a cam chain tensioner it keeps tension on the cam chain, mounts in the side of the motor on the right side. It often goes bad on the f4i makes a horrible noise like a can of BB's shaking in you motor . I had to change mine on my 01', wasnt too bad to change, but you will know when it starts to go bad you will be able to hear it.

Its a must do because it is said that the motor could jump timing if not enough tension is on the chain.

 

is it truly going bad or just making a noise?
why is it that even with all that rattling when people go WOT with all the load on the engine, the cam chain doesn't skip a tooth? if i was bad i would assume that it's not putting enough tension on the cam chain, hence the sound is the cam chain slapping around...yet it still doesn't throw off timing?

what's the truth behind this mang!?!??!
do some research before you install an APE tensioner. it may not be a failed tensioner but just a bad design in the CCTL...which can easily be remediated.

 

stick with the oem cct i really dont trust the manual cct because they dont allow slack when needed , like the oem do. And no ur cct is not bad its just a noisy little piece in there dont know the name of it but its really no big deal just noisy, if it was bad or goes bad u will know it ur bike will run like **** or not even run at all, so as to people sayin its goin bad thats not right u would have some problems that are real noticeable if its bad. its not the cam chain slappin around, umm search grambo trick and i think it talks about what is actually makin the noise on the cct.

 

I have the manual CCT on my bike and the noise is gone. If you hear the rattle nosie thenthe CCT is bad and should be changed. The dealership that works on my bike recomended the manual CCT so I had them do it and i am happy so far. You only need to adjust it if the cam chair get slack in it and starts to make noise again.

 

whats involved in the process of adjusting the aftermarket CCT?

 

Why in the world would you want slack in a cam chain? That is the whole purpose of a high performance tensioner, keeping the cam timing exactly where it is supposed to be.

Jay

 

There are two different processes you can do to adjust it. The first is easier and takes less work, but isn't quite as accurate.

First Process:

While the bike is running you want to adjust the tensioner in, until the cam chain rattle goes away. You will know if you go to far as the bike will start to misfire and the idle will drop. Once the chain rattle goes away you want to back it off a quarter turn and then lock the jam nut.

Second Process:

Take the valve cover off and bring the motor up to top dead center compression stroke on cylinder one. The cam shaft lobs should be facing away from each other. That is the point where there is the most slack in the chain. You then want to run the tensioner in, by hand, until you feel it hit the chain guide. You then want to tighten the jam nut and start the bike and do any further adjusting if necessary.