Good morning.
I have a 2002 CBR954RR that once warmed up will not shut off via the kill switch or ignition switch. The ignition switch kills the cluster but the engine continues to run. And the kill switch does nothing. I have tested and confirmed the two relays associated with these circuits are working correctly. Wondering if anyone has ever run into this or has any ideas.

It should be noted that the kick stand switch does work to kill the engine. However, the cooling fans don't seem to shut down.

 

I think the next step would be to probe for continuity. Could be something as simple as a couple wires with worn insulation rubbing up against each other

I don't know your model, but the manual will have schematics of the ignition circuit. I'd start there

 

I bet some previous own installed an extra kill switch somewhere on the bike for anti-theft protection. I do this to all my bike and stash the buttons in the trunk. Just follow all your wires, and check all the connections, you'll figure it out.

 

Issue finally resolved!
Thanks for the feedback. it turns out that the signal wire from the RR was back feeding.
Now RM Stator doesn't want to replace their defective part.

 

Ah looks like the origination is from a defective R/R (regulator rectifier) burning up. FYI this is a common problem with these bikes, it only occurs and needs to be replaced typically about every 7-10 years from my experience, and I always pack a spare R/R and some crimp connectors in the trunk for a quick repair on the road. The problem is when these fail they often get so hot that the wires will melt into each other and cause a short elsewhere too, and that if you don't stop when it starts to loose power to troubleshoot, it will arc out and drain your battery keeping you rolling until you are completely dead in the middle of nowhere or worse pop your battery all together. On my F2 My battery turned into an oval and couldn't be removed before it finally popped. I just replaced two R/R's this week, and when you replace them take a moment to inspect the housing, connector, wires, and follow the lines replacing anything that has been damaged and double check everything. One was simply from having the connector loose, which if there is a gap on the connection it will arc to the next connector and fry it, you'll smell it first, but it's usually the first thing I check next to the battery because it's so common and easy to fix.

Here's one starting to melt from yesterday (loose connection causing arc), and two from Monday that is completely burned up to a charred black and melted into another wire as well. Brand new from Honda $175-200 or ebay for $10-30. Replace wires and connector if fried, you can find pigtails for about $15 with the crimps and connector already installed, you'll still need to butt splice it into the old lines after removing any damaged wire. I get my connectors for around $4 with crimps, and you can just use some scrap wire if it's the same gauge or thicker, but never go smaller as this was the problem on Monday as someone (former tech that was let go) butt spliced a smaller gauge wire which couldn't handle the voltage and thus fried completely.

Start with the easy stuff that needs to be replaced regardless. 9 times out of 10 the stator is still good, but I would charge your battery and have it tested especially if you allowed it to run until the last drop of juice.

 

Thanks for the reply. It is the RR causing the issue. However it isn’t the connections, it is something internal on the RR itself.
I recently replaced the RR with an after market one from RM Stator but did not think it was related because the part was new. So after countless hours wasted ruling out everything else in that circuit. Now the company won’t refund without me sending it back for them to test thus going another couple weeks without a bike.
Can anyone recommend another online supplier that’s reasonably priced?

 

I have seen new ones fry because the melted wires where still touching and never addressed, not using the correct connector and not pushing everything in tight as there cannot be any gaps in the connection. Each connection need to be isolated from the next, if they are not the electricity will arc to the next unprotected connection. Most people overlook replacing the connectors and following the wire to ensure they are not melted and fused together elsewhere. If I may, I suggest always buying two R/R at a time, and keeping one as a back-up. There are cheap ones online for around ten bones, or you can take your chances with the scrap yards (I paid $120) for one in Vegas once, or new from your local Honda dealership for two hundo.

Also you can use the same R/R as the F2, F3, and 900RR for the 954 FYI hope that helps.

I found one for you on Ebay for $30, item number: 263017235485 (buy two if you plan on keeping your bike for more than 7 years)