well today was 93 degrees here in so cal and it felt like my nuts where going to melt off of me.

Does anyone know of a way to stay cooler on hot days? Has anyone tried water wetter in the radiator?

For those of you who do not know what this stuff is, there are a few variations. We use the original in our race cars with good results. they make one for motorcycles. Has anyone put this to the test?

ttp://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp?subCategoryID=31

 

I'm using the redline waterwetter, it help to cold the engine faster but your bike surrounding will get much hotter because it transfer heat out to the surrounding much faster .

 

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[font=arial,helvetica][color=#404040][size=2 font]Does it work? I cannot give a conclusive answer to that question. But I like "Water Wetter" and have been using it in all of my cars for many years now.
What I can say with conviction is that the person who wrote Redline's Technical Information brochure on "Water Wetter" knew what he or she was talking about. I have a Ph.D. in Heat Transfer and have taken a graduate course in Boiling and Condensation. Based on my training I can say that Redline's explanation of their product makes good scientific sense.
First we must dispel a common misconception: "Water Wetter" is not designed to lower your car's bulk coolant temperature. So if you put it in your E30 M3 hoping to see lower operational coolant temp's, then you will probably be disappointed.
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. The bad thing about having hot spots in your cylinder head (read combustion chamber) is that they can promote pre-ignition - definitely a bad thing. This harks back to Smokey Yunick's theory of "soft combustion chambers". Any sharp edges in your combustion chamber (around valve seats for example) may tend to get very hot (even red hot) during operation. These areas of the combustion chamber can then form local hot spots in the cooling passages. Thus, even though your bulk coolant temperature is well below its boiling point (i.e. your gauge reads just fine), there may be localized boiling in some regions of the coolant tract.
This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job.
An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in you cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from you engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages.
"Water Wetter" does not increase the boiling point of water. Standard automotive coolant does increase the boiling point of the mixture above that of 100% water. But remember that if your cooling system is operating properly, it should never get hot enough to boil (I mean BOIL, not just localized boiling). Raising the boiling point of the coolant in passenger cars is primarily a safety measure, so that if the cooling system is over stressed (climbing a hill on a hot day with AC on), it will not boil over. On performance cars the primary duty of the cooling system is to keep the engine in its optimum temperature range. This is best accomplished with 100% water, because its high heat capacity makes it very efficient at transferring heat.
Performance cars often run relatively high cooling system pressures. This also raises the boiling point of the coolant. But the high system pressure is not used to avoid boiling so

 

that was an interesting read. however, now i am scared to go only water and water wetter. I was going to drain my cooling system and take all the glycol coolant out, however, in that reading, it says that any normal cooling system should never get to boiling point. mine does all the time. i reached 220 the other day andwe have not even seen hot days here in so cal yet.

Does anyone have any advice. Does anyone know what pressure our system is under or what the water only boiling temp of our cooling system would be?

 

I've used a "wetter" type product for 2 yrs...VF1000f/ CBR1000f, in the recomended ratios... watter/coolant/ wetter. It seemed to work well in the 105f+, I have rode in. Burping the system(getting all air out) seems to make a big diff. Top off that resv. level, after the first ride cool down.Setting up w/ a bit lower thermostat helps... and a manuel switch on the rad fan... all good tips. I use a "rv watter wetter product" from wally world... under 7$/qt., at 30% in the water/coolant. Make sure your rad isn't "bugged up" too. I always turn on the fan BEFORE slowing down, from freeway into town... makes a huge diff. Free and clean, Ripp'n

 

Hey guys, I know this is off subject but I just bought a 2003 954RR last week and today I just noticed that the temp gauge was measuring in celsius is there a way I can change it to measure by degrees? Thanks. Sorry for the noob question.

p.s. I don't have the owners manual, does anyone wanna sell me one?

 

yea bro, those additives like qlycol and wetter just ensure that water does not turn into vapor. if it gets to that point than your cooling system will begin to fail, because you cant pump gas with a water pump. this is why its not that good to have 100% water in you radiator. because if you reach the 100C your water will becomes gas and over time it will seep out of your radiator excess hose and you will constantly keep adding water.

the read is ok.. but he did a half *** job on writing the article

 

so whats the magic number on the water/glycol/wetter mix for those that are running it?

also, motoswap, i think the right button held down changes F to C and visa versa. ill confirm this later today when i get on my bike.

 

i gonna guess you are referring to me; i like to have more water than anything else. i do roughly 60+% water then everything else. if you live in a hot climate like cali then try to do more than 60% of water and make the rest water wetter.

 

so 60% water/15% glycol/ 15% wetter?