No I started feeling it slip, so I started really messing around with the adjuster near the lever today. I may have a worn clutch, the bike has 10,000 miles on it and original clutch. but what is really confusing me is the clutch lever is not able to snap back fully even with the adjuster full out, like the cable is to loose or something so the lever cant fully close. I'm confused by it.

I started blipping the throttle and watched the RPMs climb but no speed increase, I'm hoping I don't need a new clutch how much do they cost on these bikes including labor

 

dazed, you can do it yourself man.


don't give me the mechanically inclined or what ever.


all you'll need is a re-build kit off ebay. you can get a in/lb torque wrench from HF for $10 and if you have a few 8mm and 10mm sockets, you can do everything yourself.

all the plates do is alternate. the manual makes it easy as can be...essentially, all you do is take the clutch over off, you'll be looking at the pressure plate held on by the springs with 5 10mm bolts. take them off, the lifter and lifter bearing will come out too. take a picture of how the plates look. pull them out, put the new ones in, they alternate. the last one goes in a different way - in the shallow slot. re install the springs with the 10mm bolts holding the pressure plate down with the lifter bearing in there. re-install clutch cover.

but it's all in the manual man, you don't need to pull the basket or center or mess with the 96 ft./lb nut or anything like that.


o, and drain the oil first.... it would get messy otherwise.

found an ebc friction plate kit - it's oem style which is what you want for $60 shipped... so long as your steel plates don't have huge burns on them, friction plates should be all you need. maybe springs too if you want to spend a bit more money.


you're probably looking at a few hours of labor, i don't really know how long those guys take considering i've never worked in a shop, but i'd say the least amount of labor hours you'd get out with are 3hrs x $60 , so you're looking at probably $180 in labor at least i'd assume? then whatever they charge to change oil. and then the clutch kit, which they'd probably do a factory oem with plates discs and springs...

idk - but it'd be a lot of money... that's for sure as opposed to doing it yourself.

 

Have you checked the cable yet? It would be a shame to do the clutches only to find out that the cable is bad...

 

ya, i'd definitely wear out the contingencies of it being the cable before you buy a re-build kit

 

Thanks guys

 

I just took it for a quick spin down the road and put it into 6 gear numerous times up hills and got on the throttle and the clutch would not slip not even once, It's all the lever and I think the adjuster near the oil. Because it engages very fast I have no room for any play say I want to take off in first I barley let out my hand and the clutch is engaged which makes for very hard shifts in 2nd and 3rd because its to fast engaging and choppy. So this must all be a slack problem?
-Thanks again

 

It sounds like your cable is stuffed. Pull it off at both ends and see if it slides easily. If it doesn't there is a fair bet that the cable is fraying.
It sounds like the cable is 'grabbing' and slightly holding the clutch open.

 

Adjusted the slack and it's all set it's still engaging a little late but it's fine for now.

 

good, glad you got it figured out

 

Everything has to be such a pain on these bikes though, especially even getting the fairing off then trying to move the coolant hose and get to the nut. It isn't exactly where I want it I would like it to engage more towards the middle, but it's a little past that so it will have to work for now. I don't know where it it engages stock