My question is 'So which mods actually make power???'

I am only asking this because after doing quite a bit of searching and reaserching and havnt been able to get a definate answer one way or another.

it has been excepted that with any modification on a stock 929 that a powercommander is needed to make good use of the extra modifications

now I have seen
velocity stacks
K&N filter and BMC filter
exhaust slip-on with the htev
exhaust slip-on with 'HASS eliminator'
full exhaust no htev
ignition advancer

now I have heard both ways about all these mods, pro and cons.
that there are gains in some areas and loses in others

I havnt seen where someone took a stock bike with a powercommander and had it customed mapped for max HP
and
then add all the performance goodied and then had it custommed mapped again to compare the best at complete stock to the best at customed modded.

factory pro claims that all there goodies
stacks
ignition advancer
all add HP without mapping

I have never heard K&N claim a loss in HP in any vehicle but apparently they don't like 929's

and I would love for someone to dyno their bike stock and then the only mods be a HASS htev eliminator and flapper mod!

but if every mod we make requires a powercommander to make good use does that mean that the powercommander is more of a factor than the actual mods themselves?

and can anyone tell me why would I buy a new pc3usb if I didn't plan on buying the LCD screen, or the quick shift or ect ect
vs buying the old pc3serial port with ignition advance built in?

why wouldn't dyno jet just make those accessories compatible for the serial port version?

I know the answer for that though.....to get more money out of us

we have to buy a new PC3, the ignition module, the connecting hub and then all the other stuff...... brilliant on their part.

I'm not sure where this post is headed so I'm done.

 

If you are after more power for a 929, then it may well pay
to look into the back catalogue of Erion Racing, Yoshimura
and the like. Though it is going to be expensive.

Start with full exhaust, PC and remap.
Then start on the engine: cams, pistons, rods,
flow the head, yatta yatta (add lots of bucks and stir)

Or

Put a blower on it

Or

Give up and spend the $$$ on a K4 GSXR
or a 'busa

 

I left the port and polish heads alone as well as cams pistons and boring and stroking the motor as well as light weight valve train components! because they are so expensive

I was focusing on just what the adverage consumer is willing to shell out which I believe is about 3-4 hundred a mod

I.e. exhaust (slip-on)
stering stabalizer
air filter
velocity stacks
pc3
chain and sprockets
ignition advancer


you know the run of the mil mods


I know I could always buy a fully built motor from ERION racing but I'm still manging the power that the bike has as is.

and since my bike is on the streets and not the track I don't need to do so.

I really didn't need to do the mods that I've done so far but I did and I don't know how many hp it made stock but I dobt my total gains were worth the total invested but I still love the way she pulls and handles.

and I will never buy a gsxr or a hayabugger!

 

could always put it on the bottle lol

 

i know this isnt the answer your looking for but maybe the best low cost mod would be a riding course or maybe some track time or something,,,maybe im just speaking for myself but i think my riding ability isnt coming close to utilizing the power my bike makes...guess my point is right now a mod isnt going to make my bike any faster because i simply dont have the skills to use the mod.however i do think my bike would be faster if i had the skills that some of you guys have,,'does that make any sense?

 

not with my upper body leaning over the tank (filled with gas) and that tank over top of a motor that might have a possible exploding piston out the top of it through said tank!

at least not for free!

 

Making power is simple, the more air you can get in and out of the engine the more power you will make. Now if youadd more air you need to add more fuel. All the pc3 does is help achieve that perfect mix of air/fuel, then sure you could add timing also to maximize the burn for said air/fuel. I dont have any facts, just going off of what i have seen or experienced. Add an air filter and flapper mod, that will help with the air in. Either a full exhaust or hass eliminator and slip on is going to max out your exiting air. Then the pc3 and dyno tune to get your ratio's the best you can, and thats about it without spending some real coin for internals. From what i have seen on a few dyno sheets the velocity stacks at best may add 1-2 hp, not worth it imo. From there you can start shaving weight from your bike, do 520 kit to lessen rotating mass, etc.

 

I get you and agree. My first 2 bikes were from theearly 80's and felt fast for a summer. Eventually I foundI was redlining it everywhere just to keep that feeling of speed. I've only ridden about 3000 miles on my 929 andfind myself spending most of my street time between 3500 and 8000rpm. I'll tach it out in 3rd, but haven't grown the ***** needed to do it in 2nd yet.

On another note, I have abit of experience tuning engine management systemsoncars, so if anyone has the factory VE tables or ignition maps to compare with the honda race maps we can figure out where the powercommander will actually help when something is added. My bike has a D&D and I removed the intake flap, but left the HTEV hooked up. No PC, and just from looking at the plugs and feeling the way the motor reacts to different loads I can tell that airflow hasn't beenincreased enough to make significantly more power or do anything bad to the motor.

 

and you just know this? so you just did the flapper mod and a D&D slip-on no pc but you can tell you havnt changed enough to need one by the look of the plugs.....your good.....lOl

 

Actually plugs can tell you a lot. For the most part thats how i used to tune the carbs on my old drag car. They will tell you rather quickly if you are too rich or too lean.