Replacing the Chain
#1
#3
RE: Replacing the Chain
This is an easy process with the right tools. Yes you will need a special tool. RK makes a chain breaker and installation tool wich makes the installtion much easier than using a grinder and punch.
Here is a Motion Pro chain breaker/riveting tool.
Here is a Motion Pro chain breaker/riveting tool.
#4
RE: Replacing the Chain
My 929 came with a Sprocket Specialists rear with 48 teeth, in the split design - meaning the sprocket can be removed without removing the rear wheel. Their site is http://www.sprocketspecialists2.com/SprocketMain.aspx. (The forward sprocket is nothing to remove. Very simple.)
I bought a 41 tooth split sprocket from them and installed it ( thinking that was stock, when actually stock for a 929 is 42) The only complication was that I had to split the difference on the chain adjuster - in other words, when I shortened the chain, there was no "in-between" number of links - I had to move the rear axle back to the "worn" range marker. Not enough room to move it forward, and I didn't mind an extra half inch of wheelbase, anyway.
Also with the reduced diameter sprocket, the chain just kisses the rubber frame guard when I'm not sitting on the bike.
( Anybody notice if your chain does that with a stock 42 tooth? )
Also, buy a high quality swaging tool - you'll be surprised how much force it takes to mushroom the swageable link. Otherwise the process isn't too bad.
ALTHOUGH - the guy in the huge bike shop where I ordered the link looked at me cockeyed and said "Y'know, most guys just replace the swaged link with a clip-style master link." BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO...... not ME.......I gotta do everything by the BOOK....! ( y'know - the hard way)
Also, have more than one extra link on hand in case you bugger the first one up...... although I managed to get lucky on the first try.
[IMG]local://upfiles/4135/49605C866AE6498795DD77617915D65E.jpg[/IMG]
I bought a 41 tooth split sprocket from them and installed it ( thinking that was stock, when actually stock for a 929 is 42) The only complication was that I had to split the difference on the chain adjuster - in other words, when I shortened the chain, there was no "in-between" number of links - I had to move the rear axle back to the "worn" range marker. Not enough room to move it forward, and I didn't mind an extra half inch of wheelbase, anyway.
Also with the reduced diameter sprocket, the chain just kisses the rubber frame guard when I'm not sitting on the bike.
( Anybody notice if your chain does that with a stock 42 tooth? )
Also, buy a high quality swaging tool - you'll be surprised how much force it takes to mushroom the swageable link. Otherwise the process isn't too bad.
ALTHOUGH - the guy in the huge bike shop where I ordered the link looked at me cockeyed and said "Y'know, most guys just replace the swaged link with a clip-style master link." BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO...... not ME.......I gotta do everything by the BOOK....! ( y'know - the hard way)
Also, have more than one extra link on hand in case you bugger the first one up...... although I managed to get lucky on the first try.
[IMG]local://upfiles/4135/49605C866AE6498795DD77617915D65E.jpg[/IMG]
#5
#6
RE: Replacing the Chain
Gorgeous bike, by the way man - I want to get mine lookin that good by the Spring.
As far as the axle nut, it IS pretty tight - factory torque is 83 foot-pounds. You would never want to use an air tool on something like that anyway.
And the allowable slack on the chain amazes me - 2 inches! The acceptable range is 1.6 to 2.0 inches, but when you set it at 2, it looks like it's gonna fall off.
I'm curious - you said "make it more ridable" - I've never had a worn chain; how is the bike behaving? By that I mean, what are the symptoms you attempting to compensate for by tightening the chain?
As far as the axle nut, it IS pretty tight - factory torque is 83 foot-pounds. You would never want to use an air tool on something like that anyway.
And the allowable slack on the chain amazes me - 2 inches! The acceptable range is 1.6 to 2.0 inches, but when you set it at 2, it looks like it's gonna fall off.
I'm curious - you said "make it more ridable" - I've never had a worn chain; how is the bike behaving? By that I mean, what are the symptoms you attempting to compensate for by tightening the chain?
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