Lowering links...what's the difference?
I just picked up a 2001 yesterday. I decided I wanted to drop the bike 2 to 3 inches, but got confused on how to lower it. Both of these are named lowering links, so it's hard to do research. So I joined this forum just see if someone can answer them for me.
Are they suppose to be used together or seperate?
If seperate...
Which one works best?
Easiest to install?
Any comments or suggestion will be appriciated.
Thanks

Are they suppose to be used together or seperate?
If seperate...
Which one works best?
Easiest to install?
Any comments or suggestion will be appriciated.
Thanks
The first picture is just what is in there from the factory with another set of holes drilled in it. I dont really feel comfortable running those on my bike.
The second picture is a lowering dog bone. The farthest hole out is basically factory, the second hole is 2nd hole is 2" drop and the 3rd is for a 4" drop (roughly).
You cant drop the 929 4" and still ride it.
The middle spot works pretty well. Its what I have on my bike.
The second picture is a lowering dog bone. The farthest hole out is basically factory, the second hole is 2nd hole is 2" drop and the 3rd is for a 4" drop (roughly).
You cant drop the 929 4" and still ride it.
The middle spot works pretty well. Its what I have on my bike.
When I posted this ad, I was hoping I would get a quick response. When nobody answered, I went ahead and ordered the triangles.
Glad I did, super easy to install and saved about $100. I had to shorten the kickstand, but that wasn't a problem either.
Is one better than the other? My riding ability says no.
Glad I did, super easy to install and saved about $100. I had to shorten the kickstand, but that wasn't a problem either.
Is one better than the other? My riding ability says no.
Hey chwelch, when u installed the dog bone lowering link, did you lose a lot of flex in the swingarm and did you have to use the factory space that came out of the stock suspension linkage? I installed mine and the swingarm won't move and I'm worried it should still have a tiny flex in it but maybe its not, I'm not sure! Help please!
Hands down the best way to lower a bike is to use Soupy's Performance lowering links. Once its installed, all it takes to lower or raise the bike is a turn of the wrench. You can find them on ebay or on thier website. The links you show in the pics only have 2 settings. Soupy's link has infinate adjustments to raise or lower the bike.
I realize this thread is old, but I thought I share my experience with the CBR lowering.
My friend bought a 2001 CBR 929 with a stock suspension that what far too tall for him. The lowering of the bike itself was easy, but there was a bit of work on either side to ge there.
He bought the link kit from ebay, and for whatever reason they sent him two shock-arms for $39.95. They were just like the picture above except the brass bushings had been chrome plated making them too large for the pivot collar to be put back in. I'll list the other one on ebay tonight for $20 + shipping.
A dremel with some super-fine sand-paper and a lot of time fixed that issue.
The net result is the bike lowered about 2-3 inches moving from the short to the medium shock arm position.
Here are the details with a few pictures:
The lowering links bought from ebay unfortunately came with chrome plating inside the brass bushings. The bottom one is fixed, the top one hasn't been yet.

Here is the removed stock shock-arm with the pivot collar sticking out of it. The stock shock-arm add bushing with grease fittings, while this replacement is just a brass bushing. Time will tell on how durable it is:

Dremel rules:

To access the shock-arm, we had to remove the seat, muffler and fairing:

To change the shock-arm, we had to take the weight off of the rear wheel. To do this we used a couple of motorcycle tie downs and a steel tube attached to an i-beam in the garage. We winched the bike up until the rear wheel was just barely off the floor.

This is me pointing out the weakest link in our plan.
Fortunately, it worked without a problem.

Picture of the link plates with the stock shock arm removed.

Picture of the new shock arm installed.

In order to install the new shock arm at the lowered position, we had to lift the rear-wheel to get the holes to align. The lift was about 4 inches.

The net result was the bike was lowered 2 to 3 inches, and now he's got the ball of his foot on the ground on each side.
My friend bought a 2001 CBR 929 with a stock suspension that what far too tall for him. The lowering of the bike itself was easy, but there was a bit of work on either side to ge there.
He bought the link kit from ebay, and for whatever reason they sent him two shock-arms for $39.95. They were just like the picture above except the brass bushings had been chrome plated making them too large for the pivot collar to be put back in. I'll list the other one on ebay tonight for $20 + shipping.
A dremel with some super-fine sand-paper and a lot of time fixed that issue.
The net result is the bike lowered about 2-3 inches moving from the short to the medium shock arm position.
Here are the details with a few pictures:
The lowering links bought from ebay unfortunately came with chrome plating inside the brass bushings. The bottom one is fixed, the top one hasn't been yet.

Here is the removed stock shock-arm with the pivot collar sticking out of it. The stock shock-arm add bushing with grease fittings, while this replacement is just a brass bushing. Time will tell on how durable it is:

Dremel rules:

To access the shock-arm, we had to remove the seat, muffler and fairing:

To change the shock-arm, we had to take the weight off of the rear wheel. To do this we used a couple of motorcycle tie downs and a steel tube attached to an i-beam in the garage. We winched the bike up until the rear wheel was just barely off the floor.

This is me pointing out the weakest link in our plan.
Fortunately, it worked without a problem.

Picture of the link plates with the stock shock arm removed.

Picture of the new shock arm installed.

In order to install the new shock arm at the lowered position, we had to lift the rear-wheel to get the holes to align. The lift was about 4 inches.

The net result was the bike was lowered 2 to 3 inches, and now he's got the ball of his foot on the ground on each side.
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