Can anyone post up a relatively close-up photo of the HTEV servomotor electrical connector?

BTW, I like your servomotor operational description Pitbike; I could not have described it better myself!

Sam

 

so as long as the the servo is good, and you adjust the htev to run ride open, you wont throw a code, do i understand that correctly? will you throw a code if you remove it all together with the HASS piece?

 

With an operational servomotor, after cable disconnection(s), it is probably a good idea to insure the servomotor pulley is 'back home'. The servomotor pulley has a hole in it. Turn the pulley such that you can insert a 3 x 28mm (or longer)bolt into the pulley hole and it drops through into the 'home' position. Remove the bolt and you should be good to go insofar as the servomotor position. Insofar as the exhaust valve and the airbox flapper, these must be secured into position as has already been described. You want the exhaust valve wide open and the airbox flapper valve positionedand secured for maximum airbox volume.

The servomotor must remain electrically connected, regardless as to whether you maintain your stock exhaust valve or replace it with a bypass, if you want to avoid the code/light.

It is my intention to work with Pitbike and see if an electronic substitute for the servomotor can be developed for the Honda 929 and hopefully the complete CBR line.

FWIW, I developed the first servomotor substitution product for the Yamaha EXUP back in 2000.

Sam

 

i look forward too seeing this, good luck!

 

I have to give credit where credit is due, the description of the servo motor operation was provided by Sam Farris, and many thanks to him for that.

I will be going over to Sam's house today to have him take a look at the servo, try some plug and play operations with other servos and start the process of him designing an alternative circuit.

Stay tuned guys, Sam may have an answer for all of us very soon!

 

Okay guys..went to Sam's house yesterday and after dissecting the servo motor, we found the expected chewed up plastic gears. He had an identical working servo, so aerospace sealed connectors are on order to build a pigtail wire harness. This will allow for quick disconnect and ability to plug into a data aquisition unit and see how the potentiometer in the servo operates thru a laptop program.

Hopefully there will be more information to provide in a about a week or so, Sam really knows his **** and if this works out, it will be a great opportunity for all of us involved to get rid of the damn MIL light. He has been building servo substitutes for Yamaha's for years thru his company (Samanna Inc.) and has had great success. As soon as Sam or I have any info, we will forward it out here.... I highly recommend giving your business to Sam as this issue may be close to finally being solved for all 929's and 954's!

 

Dang - badass!

Three cheers for Sam, et al!

Seriously, good work you two are doing.

 

+1 Kid, I got started on mine tonight. Went a little something like this...Pulled the lower and mid fairings, LS, pulled the whole HTEV section out. No big deal, there was enough play in the can band to slide it right out. As soon as it was out the cables were easy to pull off. Then I finagled the cables off the servo, hint--wait until later to do this.

Next to the tank, airbox, etc. Once the tank is up it very easy to pull the servo off the bike.1 bolt. There is plenty of harness to give it enough slack to move around and get at the cables. Then went after the flapper. A couple screws and off. I couldn't decide whether to put the side stands back in or not, being I have a K&N which isn't rigid. I didn't, left it completely open and put only the screws back in.

So then I'm thinking, PAIR valve??. So I pulled the whole air box( excellent time to pull the other cable), flap, lines, what not. And came inside to look at the old forums, i.e. 929, 954, stuntlife, fireblades, cbr929rr.com. I have read about the marble trick, the stoppers, I didn't have either so left it. From what I have read, no hp gains, just keeps that slight popping from happening on deceleration. I kinda like that so back together except for the lower fairing and HTEV which I will weld tomorrow.

FYI, when I had the servo loose I could not find a place for the home position which Mr. Farris mentioned. Mine is a 01 built in AUG00. I wonder if they used multiple servos depending. I took the pulley off and did find a spot that looked like a center punch so I aligned it there and will hope for the best. Note, I used a small hole to align. 3mm on top like Sam said but I could not get all the way through the pulley with 3mm so I stepped down to the next size allen wrench and aligned with the center punch. This is the small bore, not the hole the cable ends slide into. Just guessing on this but will update. Will hope for the best and no MIL. TBC after the HTEV goes back on.

KID where did you weld yours????

 

I know this is a stupid question, but is it possible to just remove the HTEV and put the muffler section together with the header section just minus the HTEV!?

 

absolutely not.