No no pictures of the project cause I sealed everything up I will be taking off the tank soon to finalize a few things so I will take pics, project isn't finish in actually stuck miserably confused with what going on this thread is irrelevant to that but I will post there now too

 

Ern, how hard is t to replace the rake fluid and brake lines on a 1-10 scale???

What is best lines / fluid I can purchase??

Best place to order it??? My favorite is bike bandit and motorcycle superstore..

Would you be able to give me DIY step by step on replacing these things

 

Given a basic understanding of how to wrench and the appropriate tools, I'd put
brake -overhaul about a 3 to 4-ish. Other then breaking loose neglected bolts without
damaging them, the job consists of take apart/put together.

If you want to avoid added frustration to the mix, ALWAYS use fresh, un-used
crush-rings with the banjo-bolts. If you put any torque to a crush-ring and then
relieve it, REPLACE it. Crush-rings squash/compress when properly torqued and
that case-hardens them. That makes them a one-way trip or you risk micro-leaks.

I'd give it a solid 3, but bleeding the brakes is a constant point of frustration to
mechanics since they were invented. lol

If you do a look up in the how-to and general tech's, There are some awesome pictoral
how-to's published. If you have any specific questions, by all means post/PM them.

Two other tips, get the Clymers manual. It's the same cost as one hour of a cheap
mechanic's time. Money well spent. Also, get a decent torque wrench and learn how
to use it.

A true statistic (if made up), 75% of the mistakes made are from not
following/familerizing the manul. The other 45% of errors are from
over-torqueing and/or breaking bolts.

As far as brands, any of them are fine. SS lines are state-of-the-art. None
of the reputable makers build a bad product. Fluid, ditto, just use the correct
type, they are not compatable. And if you go to all the trouble, check your pads
for wear and re-grease the hanger-pins for the calipers.

Hope this helps, Ern

 

nice looking bike 1 sick just get a work shop manual and follow directions and use the right tools for the job plyers cresent wrench and zipties will not work lol

 

Galfer lines are very good in my opinion. Use DOT 4 brake fluid. Make sure the fork seals are not leaking & getting fluid on the pads themselves.

 

1 Sick.... What kind of HIDs you got? Are they 2 or 3 bulb HIDs, what K, and what W? Do you like them? I would have to second the SS brake lines, and I am saving up for them as well.. My front brakes are kind of cushiony and now that i've read up on the SS lines I know for a fact I need them. I think that it is HEL that does a bunch of different color schemes from purple to black for the lines and fittings. Probably what i'm going to do.
Thanks, BTW bike is the same as your name... SICK!! +1 for you!

 

thanks bro !!! lol my car license plate was 1 sick g and it was a g37 heavily modded kinda stuck with me lol .. now my plate is ima boss hahaaha

 

Get a vacuum brake bleeding tool cheap as this will save a lot of headaches.

If you are going that far put kits in the calipers this will help the brakes release with nicely clean pistons. XXXXy but worth it.
It's an easy job to do them but you will spend some time, keep the same pistons in the same calipers (it's just good practice) and keep everything clean on reassembley.

Crush washers have trouble resealing as they never go back in the exact same spot so have low and high spots. Have seen a race mechanic reuse them by getting them cherry red with heat and fitting quickly.

SS lines are the go as the standard ones grow in volume with the pressure applied you will have better feel with the SS lines and get a good brand as the cheaper the product the cheaper the fittings.

 

sj66 you just blew his mind...

 

Don't mind blowing a mind, but other parts of a males anatomy are out