yeah vw i agree thats why im saying he might just be happy with the bigger engine w/o turbo.

 

The information that I have passed on came straight from a Honda factory back race team. I would think that they had the time and money to throw around to find what works? Rick at Erion Racing told me not to go larger then 1/4 mm over bore on a 954. I should have called him first, but whats done is done. Just trying to save you guys some money and headaches.

Do all of the other big bore pistons require you to nikasil the cylinders?

 

I have considered the turbo option but Im still up in the air about it. I have also talked done some questioning about if it would be possible to get a different crank and make a stroker motor out of it. Then I could easily only take it to a 954 and not be worried. As far as the tranny goes that will all be freshened up along with everything else. So my main concern is just keeping the overall reliability up if I want to go on a long haul, and considering I commute with it during summer. Im also trying to research different cams available if you know of any right off hand

 

You've had your engine apart so you'll know what I'm describing. The cylinders stand inside the water jacket like pillars attached at the edges but not touching the outside of the block. If you notice the stock sleeves are individual and don't share any of the cylinder wall. If somebody were willing to pay for it they could get a solid sleeve that is all 4 cylinders where the wall is shared at one point where they attach. This would allow an overbore of the current wall thickness (possibly 4-5mm, I don't know how thick they are) without compromising cylinder strength.

 

Yeh that is a good idea but I have a feeling I would run into a funding problem. Ill probably just go with the 954 kit and some good cams when it comes down to it.

 

Stroker is a good option. Good torque! But the other side of it is you can't put too many miles on it. I ride at least 25000 miles a year. I was told by Rick (erion racing) that there would be no way the bearings would last. Depending on how much you stroke and how you ride? He said the crank would flex and prematurely wear the bearings. The last time I check it was a $1000 to have the crank stroked and then some more money for rods? Too much to have tied up to destroy the crank and maybe a rod depending on how bad it got? You can use stock length rods,but you would have to get custom pistons made with the different pin height. Just throwing out some info. Lee.

 

This is where turbo's shine, a starting point for calculating power is 8% per psi. Blow 4psi into a 130rwhp bike and you can expect somewhere around 170rwhp as a result. That's the best way to start estimating injector sizes needed and fuel requirements so things are easier down the road. For the price and reliability it's really a great solution.

 

just go the really cheap way like myself

spray it

i am waiting for an air box (thanks again lee) and just finish pluming it up then i'm strapping it down to the dyno so we will see.
doubt it will get done today got a bunch of stuff going on in the shop and a race on sunday but want it done before i leave the shop saturday night

I'll keep everyone posted
so far i got maybe 250 buck into it and will be spraying a 40 shot
bang for the buck can't beat it !

 

Why spend all that money involved with a turbo, when you can just use that money and buy the latest bike out? They are running 170 hp or more right out of the gate! No miles, warranty, what else could you want?

 

Im not a big fan of nitrous. I dont like the idea of melting my pistons and I want something thats there all the time. not something that comes from a bottle is going to run out and i have to get refilled. And I could go the route of just bying a new bike but that spoils all the fun. I like having something thats uniqe and didnt just roll off the showroom floor just like the next guys.