I just bought this 01. When I am in 1st gear below 3000 rpm the bike is really jumpy. Expecially when I am in stop and go traffic, or just taking off from a stop. As soon as I give it some gas and hit about 3000 rpm it runs nice and smooth. Could it be the spark plugs, or something simple. Don't know to much about the bike yet, so I will take any advice you can give me!

 

i have the same issue so concrete answers would be nice. so far my ideas are plugs, coils, carb (FI) sync, and valve timing. i'm waiting for snow before i really tear into it but that's where i'm at for now

 

are you using a power commander ? which air filter are you running ? is your exhaust valve still in place (htev) ?

 

No power commander, stock air filter, and the exhaust valve is still in place.

 

It could be your exhaust valve isn't "closing" all the way. At 3000rpm it opens a bit, and again more at 7k. So if at 3k it smooths out then it's opening fine, but something isn't letting it seat below 3k it may be choking the motor out. How is idle? If the bike is running well the idle controller should allow you to start in 1st gear w/o any throttle input and get up to about 20-22mph by 6th gear. That's how I sneak out of campgrounds in the early AM with a D&D pipe.

 

It idles and starts up just fine. Where is the exhaust valve actually located? And what could I do to adjust it?

 

It's under the bike where the pipes come together. There should be adjustments for the cables similar to the clutch and throttle. Make sure they are tight but not binding. There is a thread on here about tack welding the valve on full open, but I haven't done it yet myself. It's fairly easy to remove, then you could look through it and see if there is a blockage or not.

 

clayton929, you can get a service manual for the 929 at the top of the thread lists (https://cbrforum.com/m_385874/tm.htm) that manual will walk you through diss- and re-assembly... I think I may go and tack mine open, but I'm almost certain that vwmaniac is missing something on his last post: the middle position is the right one. If you're going to do this mod, definitely do some research beforehand to get it right.

 

Yeah, you want the middle position like he said. You'll see with it off that you'll only see two are open when it's "closed", turn it until all 4 are straight through. If you keep turning they will also be 4 straight through, but there will also be holes to leak gas from one pipe to another. You don't want that at low RPMs so go for the middle position. If you do it and are unsure, post up some pictures.

 

I did the htev mod 4 straight through and it actually made my bike more jumpy below 3000rpm than it was before when the htev was working. From what I have read on this site particularily with the 929 is a power commander will smooth out the lower rpm range as well as the rest of the power band. Even with my htev fully functional it was never very smooth below 3000rpm. Also I heard the power commander gets rid of that off/on throttle hesitation which is the only thing I really dislike about the bike. Can't wait to get a pc.
Also when you do the htev mod you want the index mark on the outside of the valve to be pointing at 12 o'clock this is four straight through. If you put the index mark at 6 o'clock this is 4 straight through and crossed. I tried it both ways. 12 o'clock killed my topend but had nice midrange and was considerably louder (really fing loud)! and mad the idle very irratic like I had some serious race cams in there or somethin. 6 o'clock killed my midrage<<< all topend power, and is louder but not nearly as loud as the 12 o'clock position. Either way your power pand will be noticably different from stock and not necesarily in a good way. You definatley need a power commander to get the most out of this mod.