I was reading through some posts and found one saying that instead of blowing $50 on the APE CCT, if youputa longer screw and a nut into the stock CCT you could do the same thing as the APE for a lot cheaper. Has anyone done this? I found that a hex cap screw will fit without taking the motor or stock CCT out to get around the frame. It looks like it'll work, butmyconcern is that i don't fully understand the inner workings of the spring mechanism of the stock CCT and i don't want todamage a piston/valveover this.

 

yea that just doesnt make sense.Why would they sell a product when someone can just put a longer screw and nut in..there deffinitly has to be more to the product then you thing..in my opion i wouldnt try it.if it was the case they wouldnt even sell that product becuz everyone would do it themselves.i wouldnt try it.thats just my 2 cents

 

It will work and it will accomplish the same thing. Just wont be nearly as pretty or have the complete functionality of the APE version. People have been making adjustable tensioners out of stock onesfor years for other applications. If you don't know the inner workings though, I wouldn't recommend you undertake that kind of project.

 

Thanks for the input!

I am interested in how the stock CCT works, if anyone has diagrams/photos/details.. as far as i know, there is a spring pushing on the actual tensioner (plastic thing that rubs on the chain) and putting a longer screw in will push that spinger harder onto the tensioner. i understand the basics, but how does the honda CCTL release tool work? or do i have it backwards andthe honda toolholds tension ON the chain so it doesn't lose time while you mess with the cams/top end? if anyone has a pic of the stock CCT off the bike i think that'd help me.

 

I have always said a similar thing, if you dont know how it works, dont modify it.

 

The mystery stopper tool just keeps the guts of the stock tensioner from spinning and lengthening the pee-pee that sticks out of the CCTL and pushes on the CCT to hold tension on the CC.

If you dont use the stopper tool, and do plan on reinstalling the tensioner, you will have to have or get the right sized flat blade screwdriver, or make a tool, and spin the inside of the CCTL to retract the Pee-Pee....

Yes, Pee-Pee is a technical term.

 

stop being cheap and Get A APE!!! **** sucks when a timming chain jumps a tooth and breaks the chain!!!! hahah INTERFERENCE MOTOR!

 

thanks for the replies guys. I've asked some questions about the CCTL and this supposed upgrade at cbrworld.net (http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/296579.aspx). the guys over there have a lot of experience with the OEM CCTL and if you want to see some heated debate over APE v OEM find "uncle jeff" or "natef4i" and follow their posts. and just to fuel the fire: the OEM is better than the APE, even though it may rattle. go check it out. :-)