alright so the problem im having with testing the R/R is do i test it with it connected? or do i unplug it then test the terminals? my battery is dead, i mean old and dead, so i have to replace that anyways, but does it matter if the battery is hooked up or not?

For reference im an aviation mechanic... haha and electrics are my kryptonite. for some reason i have a hard time understand how to test for continuity or resistance, or for that matter how exactly i should set my multimeter.

 

Fix that melted connector and I'll bet the bike starts charging. I would use solder and heat shrink. That connector is not available separately.

 

but is there a way to test to make sure the stator isn't bad? i mean why else would the connectors melt like that? the inside is melted and char'd, so im assuming the wires got to hot and burnt out?

 

Yes there is a way to test the stator. Using an ohm meter check the resistance between all 3 yellow wires. pick 2 wires and test resistance then pick 2 more and then 2 more until you've checked all wire combinations. the resistance should be between 0.1 - 0.3 ohms. now check the resistance between each wire and ground. you should have infinity or out of limits. In other words you should show an open circuit. there should be no continuity between any one of the yellow wires and ground.

The reason the plug burned up is because the connections in the plug got loose. where you have a loose connection you have resistance and where you have resistance you generate heat.

I would cut the plug out completely, solder and heat shrink the wires. I did it to mine and haven't had a problem since.

I took mine to the dealer and they replaced the stator, repaired the connection under the seat and replaced the rectifier. about 9 months later it started doing the same thing. I checked it out myself and found the burned connection under the seat and the burned plug on the rectifier.

I hope this has helped and if you need any more help let me know.



Here is a page right out of the Honda service manual.

 

you might be a life saver. tomorrow the plan is to cut the connector out, test the stator and the r/r and make sure they are not bad.

Do you know if i can check the r/r with it off the bike? or does it have to be all connected with the battery in and everything?

thanks for the awesome help so far! my goal is to have it fixed by this coming weekend so i can ride in a charity event.

 

You don't want any power from the battery when you are checking resistance. So yes check it off of the bike. Use the chart on the upper right of the page to test the resistance of the rectifier. Remember for the rectifier the resistance is measured in kilo ohms.

Watch when you cut the wires there isn't much slack. You want good clean bright copper wire. If there is any black oxidation, you'll need to clean it the best you can.

Also when checking resistance that low 0.1 - 0.3 ohms heed the warning on the page about not letting your fingers touch the probe. you can measure resistance through your body and that will cause false readings.

A fully charged battery should show 12.8 volts DC on a volt meter when charging you should have 13.0 - 15.5 volts DC @ 5000rpm.

Good luck. I hope you get to ride this coming weekend.

 

alright, so i got to testing today. the stator is fine, the battery is dead, but i think my R/R is bad.

I tested it both on the bike (cables disconnected) and off the bike (on my kitchen table) and both times i had to switch on my multimeter to 20mOhms to even get a reading on the R/R and then that reading was 4.6

so does that mean my R/R is bad?

 

So on the k range you read O.L or ∞ which would indicate an open circuit. So then you switched to the 20M scale, not the 20m scale. 20M is megaohms and 20m is milliohms, big difference. On the 20M scale you read 4.6 million ohms. That indicates very high resistance.

Positive lead on the red with white tracer terminal, negative lead on the yellow terminals you got 4.6M ohms?

Negative lead on the Green terminal, positive lead on the yellow terminals you got 4.6M ohms?

What about, Positive lead on the red with white tracer terminal, negative lead on the green terminal?

I would say yes you have a bad Rectifier/Regulator. But just for S&G you could hook it up, start the bike and measure the voltage at the battery. At 5000 rpm you should have between 13 - 15.5 volts. If not then for sure the Rectifier/Regulator is bad. Just a double check.

You had one problem with the connector near the battery and now that's fixed.

 

Hey Justin,
Did you get it fixed? Is it charging?

 

Instead of making another thread, I'm going to hijack this one with my own question...

I have a 93 CBR900. Replaced the battery last week. Yesterday it started up but not as easily as normal. Went to gas station about 15 mins away, filled up, went to start back up and nothing (sound of a dying battery). GF came to give me a jump (car but engine off). Started right up, unhooked the jumper cables and was about to take off but then it died by itself just idling.

Went to jump it again and didn't do much, just solenoid clicking. I have no reason to believe the starter is bad. Whats getting me is that the bike wouldn't start for a second time, off direct (car boosting) battery?

Noticed today that the rectifier plug is looking cooked (think its the rectifier, its the bigger yellow connector with 3 yellow wires). Having trouble taking off the connector so I can't be certain yet but its looking burned.

I plan on doing multimeter checks when I get paid at end of this week (broke student) but is there a chance that the bike isn't starting simply due to this bad connector (and a now dead battery obviously)?? Figure no conductivity won't help, but hoping its not a stator or r/r or whatever.