Hey guys,

I've got a lot of time on older F2/3 600s as well as my current 2 stroke aprilia track/street bikes. I'm looking to get another big street bike and there are too many good deals on 900RRs floating around to ignore it. If I'm comfortable on said bikes, how big of a jump should I expect in the 900RR in both power and handling? I would assume (possibly wrongly) that a 95-96 RR with some miles is probably comperable (in power) to a new 600, but with worse handling. How far off am I? Not looking to re-squid myself with this purchase. Thanks guys!

-Eric

 

Try about 20 foot pounds of torque and 50 or so pounds the 900 rr is not a beginners bike man most six hundreds even by todays standards run @ about 100 hp the 900rr came stock with 120go with a jet kit and a full exhaust your lookin at about 130 and 30 more hp is alot it will take a while for you to feel comfortable in the jump but the 900rr is an amazing bike so if you buy one welcome to the club!

 

alpha,

Thanks for the info. I know the 900 is no beginners bike. I'm by no means a beginner... just dont have much time on liter bikes. You say most new 600s run around 100hp... but aren't all the big name 600s these days at least 120? I know the R6 is now up to the 130+ range, and putting over 110 to the wheel. Are the power numbers you claim for the 900 based on crank or wheel? I'm sure the low end torque will be much better with the 900, regardless.

Thanks,
-E

 

dude where are you gettin your specs from? the new r6 is rated at 105 hp.

 

Power comparison will be a close call (900 will have a slight edge), torque will go to the 900, weight & handling & suspension & looks will go to the 600. Oh yes, then of course the price comparison.

Its your call dude!

 

a jet kit and full exhaust is not gong to get you 130 hp that easy, at least according to this newsletter i found....check it...

CBR900RR Fireblade Performance Modifications




Inside this Newsletter

CBR900 Hot up
Stage 1,2 & 3



CBR900 Hot up
This has got to be one of the best bikes to hot up because of the really good increases in horse power that is obtainable. The ports in the cylinder head are small in comparison to a ZX7-9 or GSXR7 making it more suitable for porting and gas flowing and is generally easy to work on from a mechanics point of view. Complete dis assembly of the engine for cylinder boring is not ideal but well worth the effort and money spent.
This job has 3 stages to suit your own needs and the size of your pocket when it comes to shelling out the bucks, and can be added to at a later date when or if you desire. The CBR900 is never going to be an R1 beater but it will certainly hold its own with the Stage 3 kit fitted and provide many hours of adrenaline rushing ball tearing fun.
Stage 1
Stage 1 consists of a Hindle complete exhaust system, Dynojet carb kit and K&N air filter. The dynojet setting does vary from bike to bike which is why we like to dyno them to fine tune the kit. If that isn't possible, or you're interstate then the recommended settings in the kit will get you very close to the mark.
This example shows a stock figure of 118hp before we started working on it, (stock power for a CBR900 varies from 110 up to 118 hp). After fitting above mentioned parts and tuning to suit it finished up with a peak of 124 hp but more importantly a good 5-6 through the midrange where it is needed most. See graph below
.


The other aspect of this Stage is throttle response and acceleration. This is the single most important test because it relates to what the rider feels on the road. Its all about how fast the carburettor slide lifts up when accelerating at full throttle. The quicker it lifts then the harder it accelerates, but if it lifts too fast then your left with a hole in the midrange, so its important to get it right. You're probably wondering why they don't make them like this from the factory and there's a couple of reasons for it. To comply for ADR requirements it must pass emissions tests and noise tests, both exhaust and induction which means they are limited to how far they can go with it.
The graph below is from the same bike before and after fitting these parts. Obviously to make more hp it has to burn fuel, so expect an increase in consumption, it's not huge depending on how you ride but those who measure their mileage will find an increase. Of course if your too busy riding it then all you'll notice is the extra power that's on hand.

The price for this kit including Hindle stainless steel pipe, Dynojet carb kit and K&N filter, fitted, jetted and dyno tuned from $1995.00. You can bring the price down by not fitting the air filter or jet kit, you will still get a good result, but if you're really hungry for more power then that is the go before you get to stage 2.


Big Skid kit Stage 2
Stage 2 includes all of stage 1, porting, flow testing, and setting the cam timing. The first thing is to remove the cylinder head, set it up on the flow bench and record the flow readings so we have a base to work off. This is a very time consuming process because the flow rating is tested at 5 or 6 different valve lifts which must be measured using 2 dial indicators set up on a hand made plate bolted solidly to the test head that will give the same measurement and consistency every time a

 

I certainly agree with this.

But don't get into this top end power comparison alot. Its just on paper. In real situation, a 900 can always blow a modern 600 away at any time with its awesome torque.

 

Wrong place for an un-bias opinion! anyways ive have a few bikes in my day (like almost everyone) and i love my 900rr sure other bikes are faster, quicker, handle better, brake better ect. but who really care! we can all whip em out and see who has the biggest one to really see but how often do you need 3 extra hp from a $1000 modification? bikes are fast REAL fast sit ur buns plenty of bikes and see what you like, and if you like new skinny 600's go for it if you like low fast beast get a 900rr your riding it not any of us...... that just my opinion.

 

Did you read what I posted at all? Completely ignore the crank vs. wheel question? If an r6 is pushing 105 at the wheel, you're going to see a larger number at the crank... and crank numbers are more often advertised or thrown around in the media.

Quoted from: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ne...res/index.html

"Yamaha says that all that's worth three more ponies, putting 123 in the R6 corral." (referring to 2005 model year even)

Quoted from: http://www.gizmag.com/go/8203/

"The screaming motor will deliver a healthy 135 horsepower through the use of the highest compression pistons Yamaha have ever used on a bike."

I could go on an on with those links, but there's no use. All you had to do was say the numbers for the 900 you mentioned were at the wheel... not give me some smartass teenager response.

 

New 600 supersports are nothing to sneeze at in my opinion.

But if you want old-school power and more torque down low without having to upshift a lot...I'd go with the 900rr.

On the freeway, I don't even have to downshift to pass cars or get by them...just twist that wrist!