Replacing side stand help needed
#11
That rear bolt is knackered. You can’t knacker it more as it’s already knackered.You can only work with what you have left. You could try a decent ring spanner but I think she’d slip.
Curved jaw locking pliers have got me out of trouble before. The trick is getting them on fantastically tight (the force used to close and lock them will be at your limit if you want them to stand a chance)and at the right angle to allow force to be used on the handles. In your case it would be good to be able to use your booted foot with leg pressure to get it to move.
That said, if loctite or similar has been used then generous amounts of heat must be applied beforehand.
As for removing the entire assembly, examine all the heads for damage and check your tooling for wear. If the heads are fresh then with decent tooling you should be able to extract whatever you need to remove. If they are of the Allen key type, clean out the recesses so the key can sit as deep as possible.
Having said all that, Chris’s idea with the angle grinder is definitely worth some thought.
Best of luck mate.
Curved jaw locking pliers have got me out of trouble before. The trick is getting them on fantastically tight (the force used to close and lock them will be at your limit if you want them to stand a chance)and at the right angle to allow force to be used on the handles. In your case it would be good to be able to use your booted foot with leg pressure to get it to move.
That said, if loctite or similar has been used then generous amounts of heat must be applied beforehand.
As for removing the entire assembly, examine all the heads for damage and check your tooling for wear. If the heads are fresh then with decent tooling you should be able to extract whatever you need to remove. If they are of the Allen key type, clean out the recesses so the key can sit as deep as possible.
Having said all that, Chris’s idea with the angle grinder is definitely worth some thought.
Best of luck mate.
#12
It looks like your sidestand is mounted with two allankey bolts.
As mentioned before by leanman82, bevery carefull. They look good but make sure you allankey is inserted as deep as possible.
One of these bolts seem to hold de shiftlinkage too, but I wouldn't worry about that.
I think it is just used as a hinge. When inserting the bolt again, lubricate it and go.
It looks very straight foreward. You practically can't go wrong.
As mentioned before by leanman82, bevery carefull. They look good but make sure you allankey is inserted as deep as possible.
One of these bolts seem to hold de shiftlinkage too, but I wouldn't worry about that.
I think it is just used as a hinge. When inserting the bolt again, lubricate it and go.
It looks very straight foreward. You practically can't go wrong.
#16
#17
I was able to remove the entire kickstand assembly off the bike. I had to wait for a hex socket set, a few other tools and also heat gun to come in. My first plan was to try to heat the kickstand because I read there is red loctite on there. Turns out its true (see images). I've read that you need to heat up to 550 F to get the red to melt but the heat gun was topping out at 480 with some spurts to 550 (really hard to tell tbh, I was using a laser temperature gun). Anyways, got my open ended wrenches on the two bolts of the kickstand and tried to knock them loose, but no dice. The back nut just seem too busted and slipped. You can see in previous post its state.
Next thing I just removed the entire assembly, by taking the suggestion of removing the two bolts and one hinge bolt for the shifter arm off. Now the entire assembly is removed (see images).
I'm wondering if I should try to use vice wrench like the one in this image and give it second whirl now that the entire assembly is off?
The other thing is I don't see how someone can cut the busted bolt off. Some of you have suggested to get someone to cut the busted bolt off once I get the entire assembly removed. . The bolts are flush to the assembly, is it possible to cut the bad bolt off?
Side view of kickstand assembly. Can someone cut the seized bolt off without damaging the other parts of the kickstand?
Red loctite on bolt and front view
Back view and busted nut
Next thing I just removed the entire assembly, by taking the suggestion of removing the two bolts and one hinge bolt for the shifter arm off. Now the entire assembly is removed (see images).
I'm wondering if I should try to use vice wrench like the one in this image and give it second whirl now that the entire assembly is off?
The other thing is I don't see how someone can cut the busted bolt off. Some of you have suggested to get someone to cut the busted bolt off once I get the entire assembly removed. . The bolts are flush to the assembly, is it possible to cut the bad bolt off?
Side view of kickstand assembly. Can someone cut the seized bolt off without damaging the other parts of the kickstand?
Red loctite on bolt and front view
Back view and busted nut
#18
#19
I was able to get it off. Check it out.
I used a vice grip on one side to keep the busted side from moving and then for the other side I already had one socket adapter split on me, so when this bolt started to give - I thought my tools were breaking again. But the tools looked looked solid upon inspection. ???? So I was like could it be, did it give lol
It totally did. I guess with the heat and my socket wrench there was enough to break that *****... on to putting it all back together now..
I used a vice grip on one side to keep the busted side from moving and then for the other side I already had one socket adapter split on me, so when this bolt started to give - I thought my tools were breaking again. But the tools looked looked solid upon inspection. ???? So I was like could it be, did it give lol
It totally did. I guess with the heat and my socket wrench there was enough to break that *****... on to putting it all back together now..