The oil was changed on my bike at 1000 miles, and it currently has ~4450 miles. What is the best oil to use? I saw a lot of people on 600rr.net are using Shell Rotella. Also, how hard is it to change the oil yourself? I don't have the stands, only the kickstand...but if it's only $30 or $40 then I might just take it to the dealer. Would it also be a good time to change the fluids (brake fluid). Sorry if I'm asking newb questions, tried to search but couldn't really come up with anything concrete. You guys will have to bear with me as I try to learn as much as I can about these bikes

Matt

 

oh dear god... not this question again. If you want to know which oil is good, let's see how well your oil that's in there held up. if it did good, then you've got a winner. If not, it's time to do some homework. popular oils are:

AMSOIL
Moble1 MX4T
Motol
Repsol
Shell Rottella T
Honda HP4

If you want the BEST oil, the AMSOIL proved to be superior durring trials, but rear world conditions vary from bike to bike, and from motor to motor. Go to AMSOIL.com, get your oil tested, and post your results. we'll make a decision based on that. that's the BEST method to determine the BEST oil for your bike.

Or you could just get any of the ones above and not worry about it. it might not be the best, but at least it's lubrication, and that's the important thing.

Changing your oil is easy as hell, even without swingarm stands

use the information found on 600rr.us to change it out. that's how i did it, and it worked well. Before you start, find a really low-to-the-ground container that will hold 3 qts. minimum. get a funnel and a box of rags.

If you take it to the dealer, they will probably charge you WAY more than 30-40 bucks. i gurrentee. $60/hr plus parts.

Don't bother with the Brake fluid yet.

 

Thanks [&:] sorry about the question, didn't mean to ask which oil is THE BEST....since I'm sure all the major oils are comparable. Thanks for the info!

 

its just like changing the oil on anything else, you take out the plug and let it drain, take off the filter, put on a new one, put the plug back in and put in the new oil, not worth paying someone an obscene amount of money for something that takes less than 5 minutes to do. oh you dont need any stands btw, just something to drain the oil into, like a pan, and youll need to take off the right side fairing, oil filter is right under the headers.

 

get a proper filter wrench as they are really tight, you might need a gentle tap with a hammer and chisel/screwdriver to get it going. go for a semi synthetic oil and then fully on your next change as your engine is wearing in, so next service the fully synth will give the best protection to keep her at her best, dont forget new washer on the sump plug and make sure the filter is tight, my mate didnt and ended up with a very slippery tyre at over 80mph d'oh!

 

after your first change, your motor is sufficantly broken in already. don't be shy about switching to full syn and skip the semi syn. i see no reason to go halfies just to switch to full.

No need for a new washer, it's reuable. just torque the drain plug and flter to the correct spec and you'll be fine.

chainging oil isn't rocket science.

 

I can't believe this thread hasn't turned into an Dino vs Synth debate!

Just change your oil every 3,000 miles and put in whatever "goop" you want...synth is no better than regular oil although many people (around here especially) have fallen victim to advertising hype and believe it is...

I use Honda HP4 because I figure with all the debate about Dino oil vs synth, why not get the best of both worlds, but there's nothing magical about synthetic oil, other than being able to handle million degree heat which our bikes will never reach anyway...any way, don't be afraid to use regular Dino oil because a bunch of people say synth is better...I know someone who races and uses nothing but dino oil (never had an engine failure) and another person with over 100,000 miles on his F4 and uses exclusively dino oil and like I mentioned, you can put in whatever you want, but synth is no better than regular...don't believe the hype!

**oil debate ignited"

 

I don't care what you say I'm using synthetic! [sm=usa.gif] <---(I don't know why I chose that.) Anyway, he's right, it really doesn't matter, however a good standard oil is gonna run you about the same cost as an synthetic, so I just go with synthetic. Besides, to those outside the sportbike and automotive industry, synthetic sounds like a mystical liquid that can even cure cancer, thus when I tell people I run synthetic, they stand in awh![sm=burnout.gif]

the debate has been avoided, hopefully

 

Depends on the oil... some synthetics are good, some synthetics suck. Yeah they can withstand incredible heat, but the important thing to remember about that is synthetic doesn't evaporate as much as conventional stock does (generally).

 

Anyone ever have a problem with clutch slipping useing synyhetic. I just had dealer change my oil. And the service guy told me that after they raped me and charged me 111bucks. I was hopeing to be faned and served grapes while it took an hour for a certified mec. to do it but that did'nt happen. But as i was saying I'v always used it in my other bikes 954 ,929 and fzr1000 and snomobiles and never had a problem.