downshifting
#11
04-07-2008, 11:17 PM
RE: downshifting
ORIGINAL: BadLag
because most of the time, the gear ratio is so short that you'd just grind it trying to force it into gear. happens on my rx7 when i try to downshift to 1st... even if i match the rpm's properly... i blip the throttle in my car just like i do on my bike but it still doesn't work.
ORIGINAL: spiderc
In a manual car you dont downshift into first? Where the hell did you hear that? Why wouldnt you be able to downshift to 1st in a car?
In a manual car you dont downshift into first? Where the hell did you hear that? Why wouldnt you be able to downshift to 1st in a car?
#12
04-08-2008, 01:37 AM
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#13
04-08-2008, 06:18 AM
RE: downshifting
ORIGINAL: mingstah
eh not suppose to downshift to first gear on cars, a lot of manual cars have a lock mechanism for first gear and reverse. Don't matter for bikes tho.
eh not suppose to downshift to first gear on cars, a lot of manual cars have a lock mechanism for first gear and reverse. Don't matter for bikes tho.
#14
04-08-2008, 07:03 AM
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RE: downshifting
ORIGINAL: WoodyRR
I'd be surprised to know you don't apply rear brake at the same time. Is this a type-o?
I downshift anduse the engine brake to preserve brake pad life as well to let people know in the local vicinity that there's a bike near. Once you get used to your bike and get to know it really well, you'll be able to barely use the brakes at all when coming to a stop. Just a small, light application of F & R brakes to come to a complete stop. Just play around with it until you get a feel for the timing. Good luck.
ORIGINAL: Blue Fox
I love to downshift to 1st when coming to a stop because you are using the engine to brake instead of the front end diving down when you use the front brakes only. I usually downshift and apply a little front brake at the same time.
I love to downshift to 1st when coming to a stop because you are using the engine to brake instead of the front end diving down when you use the front brakes only. I usually downshift and apply a little front brake at the same time.
I downshift anduse the engine brake to preserve brake pad life as well to let people know in the local vicinity that there's a bike near. Once you get used to your bike and get to know it really well, you'll be able to barely use the brakes at all when coming to a stop. Just a small, light application of F & R brakes to come to a complete stop. Just play around with it until you get a feel for the timing. Good luck.
I'm usually not surprised to hear about some noob that doesn't use his rear brake at all, but the Fox??? Say it ain't so...
#15
04-08-2008, 05:13 PM
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#17
04-08-2008, 07:59 PM
RE: downshifting
+1, i was confused on that as well. Why can't u downshift to 1st in car when it comes to a stop????? I think what he was trying to say is put it in Newtral instead of downshifting. But you can always downshift to first before it comes to stop just as long as your foot is on the clutch.
#18
04-08-2008, 08:51 PM
RE: downshifting
CLARIFICATION... Many cars, such as hondas and whatnot, to save on funds, are not fully synchro to first, which is why you cannot downshift into them, as the gears will grind. Personally, I drive a european car, and she loves it when I down to first. Keeps the front stable, but you have to rev match.
For the bike, of course you can downshift into first, if you couldnt, how would you be able to bang out of a corner at any less then 80mph? When you do downshift into first, and even into second, you should really 'rev-match'. By that I mean when slipping the clutch to downshift, you should flick the throttle to get the engine going in the right direction, it will fall in much more smoothly, and reduce rear end chatter, which maximizes traction!
For shifting either up or down on your bike, because the tranny has amazing synchros in it, you dont even need the clutch. By this I dont mean just kick it in, but rather stage it. For upshifting, you can 'prime' the shifter, but applying upward pressure to the shifter, but not enough to cause it to switch. While holding the pressure on the shifter, flick back on the throttle just a tad as to reverse the tension on the chain. This will take pressure off the gears in the transmission, and because you already have a slight pressure on the shifter, it will 'suck-up' into the next gear. When you get it right, its a blast. It also works really well on the downshift as well, but BE CAREFUL with this, cause if you do it wrong, the rear will come loose, and that can have tragic endings. Another way to help this run smoothly, if your handy with adjustments, is slightly shorten the length of the shift rod. This will make the shifter more sensitive to movement, and just the weight of of your foot on it will be enough to get it to suck into the next gear. Again dont over do this.
For the bike, of course you can downshift into first, if you couldnt, how would you be able to bang out of a corner at any less then 80mph? When you do downshift into first, and even into second, you should really 'rev-match'. By that I mean when slipping the clutch to downshift, you should flick the throttle to get the engine going in the right direction, it will fall in much more smoothly, and reduce rear end chatter, which maximizes traction!
For shifting either up or down on your bike, because the tranny has amazing synchros in it, you dont even need the clutch. By this I dont mean just kick it in, but rather stage it. For upshifting, you can 'prime' the shifter, but applying upward pressure to the shifter, but not enough to cause it to switch. While holding the pressure on the shifter, flick back on the throttle just a tad as to reverse the tension on the chain. This will take pressure off the gears in the transmission, and because you already have a slight pressure on the shifter, it will 'suck-up' into the next gear. When you get it right, its a blast. It also works really well on the downshift as well, but BE CAREFUL with this, cause if you do it wrong, the rear will come loose, and that can have tragic endings. Another way to help this run smoothly, if your handy with adjustments, is slightly shorten the length of the shift rod. This will make the shifter more sensitive to movement, and just the weight of of your foot on it will be enough to get it to suck into the next gear. Again dont over do this.
#20
04-08-2008, 11:59 PM