shift point
you can find on the net the RPM for peak HP and peak torque. between these two is where you want to be for max performance. peak HP would be near around redline, probably a little under, and peak torque ~10K IIRC.
I personally cruise around 7-8K rpm, and when the road gets twisty i might shift as high as 11, but normally around 9-10.
take note the red line is 13.5K, so 7K is like 3.5K on a car.
if you are riding this bike between 3K-5K, you can get another, cheaper bike. you are not even tickling it
I personally cruise around 7-8K rpm, and when the road gets twisty i might shift as high as 11, but normally around 9-10.
take note the red line is 13.5K, so 7K is like 3.5K on a car.
if you are riding this bike between 3K-5K, you can get another, cheaper bike. you are not even tickling it
Your over thinking things, shift whenever you need/want to, just make sure the engine doesn't labour.
These are high performance engines designed for high revs, they are pretty much bullet proof so shifting at 7 or 8k isn't going to destroy it.
These are high performance engines designed for high revs, they are pretty much bullet proof so shifting at 7 or 8k isn't going to destroy it.
Similar history, similar problem. Gradually getting use to and exploring more of the rpm band. I've visited the 9, 10, 11, K range rarely so far. Although the "feel" between the 7K redline in the car is very different then the bike, I still tend to associate 7+K rpm with dollar signs. In time I to will recognize the error of my ways.
Most F4/F4i riders will never (or unlikely) to truly explore the bike's designed track potential. When I'm on the track, I'm riding a dif way than I am on the street. There's a lot more engine-braking, which is w-a-y up in the rpm band. Conversely, when I exit the apex, I'm rolling on the throttle w-a-y up in rpms as well. Point is, let it roll baby!


