Replacing the start / stop "kill" switch
#1
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Long Island, New York
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Replacing the start / stop "kill" switch
Im looking at replacing the start stop on my F4. Sometimes (maybe once every 15 tries) if you tap sharply on the switch, the bike will stumble.. That leads me to believe that there might be something going inside of it... I plan on buying one from Ron ayers.. They are like $60... Not too bad.. It has a harness plug that doesn't look too bad except for getting to it. Bt what about disconnecting the throttle cables inside the switch at the grip? How bad of a job is that?
Any tips of info is greatly appreciated..
Thanks
Any tips of info is greatly appreciated..
Thanks
#2
I don't remember it as being a big deal to swap out cables.
Before you spend $60, you might consider whipping that can of cantact-cleaner out
and then using some di-electric grease on the switch contacts. (if they are accessable).
Odds are all you're really dealing with is some corrosion, there. The hour spent might
be worth your time. Especially, since you'll pretty much be doing the same thing in a swap.
It'll either work, or let you know what you're facing for the real-deal.
Good luck, Ern
Before you spend $60, you might consider whipping that can of cantact-cleaner out
and then using some di-electric grease on the switch contacts. (if they are accessable).
Odds are all you're really dealing with is some corrosion, there. The hour spent might
be worth your time. Especially, since you'll pretty much be doing the same thing in a swap.
It'll either work, or let you know what you're facing for the real-deal.
Good luck, Ern
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#5
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thanks guys..
IdoDirt: i actually never use the switch.. .my thinking is that if there is an intermittent problem, it will just get worse ... one day it might kill the bike and then I'm screwed.. was thinking of this as preventative maintenance.. maybe I'll open it up.. just the two screws, right?
IdoDirt: i actually never use the switch.. .my thinking is that if there is an intermittent problem, it will just get worse ... one day it might kill the bike and then I'm screwed.. was thinking of this as preventative maintenance.. maybe I'll open it up.. just the two screws, right?
#6
I agree with the preventative measures entirely. Yes, it's just the 2 to split the housing and get the top half off the Slip-On. Then if I recall, there is another inside that holds the wiring harness in place. The switch is all plastic with the exception of the electrical components, like spring, contacts and what not. I found a few photo's I had of the ones on an F3, but I'm sure they're the same.
#7
#9
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okay.. what fun!
thanks guys.. I did what you said.. took it apart.. sprayed with electronic cleaner, put some dielectric grease on it and put it back together..
I never saw the spring or ball inside of the switch pop out though.. lol... put it back together and it had no 'click'... but it worked... my wife comes out and magically finds the bal on the floor of the garage.. what's this? then she found the spring behind it... put it all back together again and its perfect.. and it doesnt shut off when you tap it.. hopefully its fixed.. and it only cost me about $4 for a fresh tube of diectric grease (which I needed anyway).
Thanks again
thanks guys.. I did what you said.. took it apart.. sprayed with electronic cleaner, put some dielectric grease on it and put it back together..
I never saw the spring or ball inside of the switch pop out though.. lol... put it back together and it had no 'click'... but it worked... my wife comes out and magically finds the bal on the floor of the garage.. what's this? then she found the spring behind it... put it all back together again and its perfect.. and it doesnt shut off when you tap it.. hopefully its fixed.. and it only cost me about $4 for a fresh tube of diectric grease (which I needed anyway).
Thanks again