CBR 600F4 1999 - 2000 Honda CBR 600F4 Forum

Replaced header gaskets, exhaust nuts will not stay tight!?!

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  #11  
Old 07-26-2013 | 12:47 AM
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just convert it to lb-in and you will be fine that is what i did until I got my digital snap-on one now everything is easy.

9 lb-ft = 108 lb-in
 
  #12  
Old 07-26-2013 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Fryup2000
Thanks tim,

Will look into this. I assumed header were torqued up pretty tight to make a good seal. Apparently not!

I'm guessing its so you don't crack the pipes or something?

9ft lbs... Will see how low my wrench goes, although I won't be able to fit it in there, just something to compare tightness to!
No Problem and glad to help


I think the pressure is set around 9ft lbs as that's the listed torque
for those sized nuts and expect the thread may strip if you over tighten them.

I found this site which lists 8mm metric around 10.5 ft lbs and it appears to be the grade of metal used how its based - Have a look here

Standard Application Torque Recommendations

I'd expect its the stud thread that would be the weakest point
Anyone feel free correct me if I am wrong
 

Last edited by Black'n'Yellow; 07-26-2013 at 02:36 PM. Reason: extra text
  #13  
Old 07-26-2013 | 02:43 PM
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Just found this page which explains torque and settings and a interesting read :
Torque, and Torque Wrenches
 
  #14  
Old 07-29-2013 | 12:34 PM
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what i ended up doing is drill a 1/16 or 1/8 hole in the very end of the header nuts then cut short pieces (4 inch) of clothes hanger wire (thicker, not thin, flimsy hanger wire) and run the wire through the holes in each nut. for the two out side nuts i just cut a extra long piece of wire and secure it around the header tube itself with a sort of hook and loop set up on the wire ends so it wont move around. for the six inside nuts i used one piece of wire and ran it through both nuts and slightly bent the ends with my pliars so its impossible for the wires move around to back out of the hole in the nut. cheap way to lock header bolts but not ghetto at all. i used pliers to manipulate the wires where i wanted them to be, very solid for sure. you can even snug the nut after all that with a box end wrench for extra snuggness. you will never have to worry about them backing off again because when one tries to back out the wire being through the other nut keeps it from moving. if that makes sense
 

Last edited by cBrentb; 07-29-2013 at 12:44 PM.
  #15  
Old 07-29-2013 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cBrentb
what i ended up doing is drill a 1/16 or 1/8 hole in the very end of the header nuts then cut short pieces (4 inch) of clothes hanger wire (thicker, not thin, flimsy hanger wire) and run the wire through the holes in each nut. for the two out side nuts i just cut a extra long piece of wire and secure it around the header tube itself with a sort of hook and loop set up on the wire ends so it wont move around. for the six inside nuts i used one piece of wire and ran it through both nuts and slightly bent the ends with my pliars so its impossible for the wires move around to back out of the hole in the nut. cheap way to lock header bolts but not ghetto at all. i used pliers to manipulate the wires where i wanted them to be, very solid for sure. you can even snug the nut after all that with a box end wrench for extra snuggness. you will never have to worry about them backing off again because when one tries to back out the wire being through the other nut keeps it from moving. if that makes sense
Sounds great what you have done there!


This would make a good "Sticky" or "How to do" for us less experienced
to learn from.

Could you post a picture of what it looks like on your bike please?
 
  #16  
Old 07-30-2013 | 02:46 AM
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For those still trying to fit a tqrque wrench in - you can use another very acurate method.

You need to achieve 9ft - lbs

That is 9lbs of weight at the end of a 1ft wrench

OR

18lbs of weight at the end of a 6" wrench.

I have used a 6" wrench on the nuts and a fishing balance scale to apply the 18lbs force.

Works every time in tight spaces.
 
  #17  
Old 07-30-2013 | 05:39 PM
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Cbrentb... would be great to see a pic of your handywork! Not sure im capable of all that though!

Dean0... great advice! For some reason ive never thought of it like that, but now you mention it... it makes sense!!!
 
  #18  
Old 07-31-2013 | 04:51 PM
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I sold the bike a month ago. Just take a header nut drill straight through the end (not the flange end) making two holes. Cut a piece of coat hanger the same size of the hole and slide it through.
 
  #19  
Old 08-06-2013 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cBrentb
I sold the bike a month ago. Just take a header nut drill straight through the end (not the flange end) making two holes. Cut a piece of coat hanger the same size of the hole and slide it through.
+1 - Thanks for the advice to you and Dean0 on the torque wrench trick


I expect the right sized split pin would work too in place of the coat hanger wire.
 
  #20  
Old 08-07-2013 | 03:02 AM
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Default yes any type wire should work

it doesnt have to be coat hanger wire. any wire thats at least the size of the thickest type coat hanger wire. im guessing 1/8 diameter, just a guess. some thing not flimsy in other words. hope you get a fix
 
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