No spark, just got the bike
#11
Good luck and when you get it, don't connect it to your bike right away. Use your meter and make the same checks to see if you have continuity across all 3 places when the key is in the on/run position. Once you verify that, then I'd think you could connect it up.
Keep us posted.
Also, I searched ebay for that one and looked at the photos. Notice that it has the "security allen screws" (could be torx, can't be sure), so you'd need to have that to remove that bottom switch section. You can make the continuity checks from the 4 pin connector easily enough though, so I wouldn't take it apart just to make those checks. The switch assembly you showed originally looked awfully pretty for a bike that old if you know what I mean.
Keep us posted.
Also, I searched ebay for that one and looked at the photos. Notice that it has the "security allen screws" (could be torx, can't be sure), so you'd need to have that to remove that bottom switch section. You can make the continuity checks from the 4 pin connector easily enough though, so I wouldn't take it apart just to make those checks. The switch assembly you showed originally looked awfully pretty for a bike that old if you know what I mean.
Will probably get the part in about a week or 2, until then I’m going to fix the chewed up wires at the rear of the bike and take the tank off and check anything else for mice damage. I’ll remember to take more pics as I go through it!
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IDoDirt (06-14-2022)
#12
Repaired the chewed wires in the back and now the license plate light works and the right blinker works, front and back. Left blinker worked prior. Only thing I noticed is the right turning indicator on the cluster is not lighting up. Maybe cluster bulb? Maybe another chewed wire? Since I’m replacing the upper fairing anyway I will be inspecting the cluster and ohming the wire from back to front. I removed the side fairings and honestly this bike isn’t visually in bad shape, pleasantly suprised!
Also noticed the drive chain is WAY too tight, I’m hoping the drive bearings aren’t done, will be inspecting the sprockets and loosening the chain next.
Last edited by Streetstyle54; 06-15-2022 at 06:43 PM.
#15
#17
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IDoDirt (06-18-2022)
#18
Just got the used ignition, continuity on 3 leads, plugged it in and she sparks! Sprayed some carb cleaner and it fired right up and surprisingly ran for like 15 seconds with whatever **** fuel was left in the carbs. Pulled off the carbs and noticed 1 more chewed wire so time to clean the carbs and clean/repair the area by the starter motor. All good news!
fuel pump, spark plugs, battery on order. Just have to order more bolts and fairing bolts to make it complete once it’s all together.
fuel pump, spark plugs, battery on order. Just have to order more bolts and fairing bolts to make it complete once it’s all together.
#19
Oh hell, that is excellent news. Congratulations on getting her up and running. So, where are you going to source your carburetor rebuild kits from? Gaskets and O rings. Might I suggest the below vendor? Takes a little while to get, but better than OEM.
https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Honda_CBR600_1995-2000.html
https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Honda_CBR600_1995-2000.html
#20
Oh hell, that is excellent news. Congratulations on getting her up and running. So, where are you going to source your carburetor rebuild kits from? Gaskets and O rings. Might I suggest the below vendor? Takes a little while to get, but better than OEM.
https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Honda_CBR600_1995-2000.html
https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Honda_CBR600_1995-2000.html
i actually saved this site when you posted it on my last thread. Im going to order everything and do it right this time, I don’t want any issues.
thanks again for saving another Cbr!! Will keep posted, probably be a week or two before she’s back together at least mechanically until I get the gaskets etc but it’s worth the wait and I have enough side jobs to keep me busy 👌🏻