No spark, just got the bike
#1
No spark, just got the bike
Hey guys! So I purchased this bike for a good deal and it definitely has some wiring issues. Mice chewed up the tail lights leaving exposed wire. Didn’t find any blown fuses. So I attempted to start and have no spark on all 4 plugs. I took the ignition switch out, seeing as a lot of people had issues with diodes, but this ignition switch looks oem and has no diode, I’m assuming this does not have that anti theft feature. The bike cranks and lights work so I’m assuming the switch is good. BUT, following the Honda service manual, with the key on, have continuity between 2 of those wires and nothing else. Should I just order a new switch base or does it seem like it’s fine. It clearly looks like somebody was in here as it was missing a screw from the top cover and both of those screws that hold down the meachanism. I love when people don’t put things back together correctly!
#2
#4
Since you have the ignition switch out, it should be easy to plug it back in and do voltage checks. With the switch turned on, 3 wires should read battery voltage, whatever that is on your bike at the time. So, the Red wire, the Red/Black, and the Blue/Orange wire should all have 12v on them. The pink wire should have around 9 or something.
#5
Since you have the ignition switch out, it should be easy to plug it back in and do voltage checks. With the switch turned on, 3 wires should read battery voltage, whatever that is on your bike at the time. So, the Red wire, the Red/Black, and the Blue/Orange wire should all have 12v on them. The pink wire should have around 9 or something.
Also only have continuity between 2 of the wires.
Last edited by Streetstyle54; 06-13-2022 at 06:43 PM.
#7
I noticed cmsnl actually has the base AND the ignition set (350$) but never heard of that site before but maybe I’ll order just the base in case that eBay one I just ordered is bad. Fingers crossed!
Last edited by Streetstyle54; 06-14-2022 at 03:42 AM.
#8
Good luck and when you get it, don't connect it to your bike right away. Use your meter and make the same checks to see if you have continuity across all 3 places when the key is in the on/run position. Once you verify that, then I'd think you could connect it up.
Keep us posted.
Also, I searched ebay for that one and looked at the photos. Notice that it has the "security allen screws" (could be torx, can't be sure), so you'd need to have that to remove that bottom switch section. You can make the continuity checks from the 4 pin connector easily enough though, so I wouldn't take it apart just to make those checks. The switch assembly you showed originally looked awfully pretty for a bike that old if you know what I mean.
Keep us posted.
Also, I searched ebay for that one and looked at the photos. Notice that it has the "security allen screws" (could be torx, can't be sure), so you'd need to have that to remove that bottom switch section. You can make the continuity checks from the 4 pin connector easily enough though, so I wouldn't take it apart just to make those checks. The switch assembly you showed originally looked awfully pretty for a bike that old if you know what I mean.
Last edited by IDoDirt; 06-14-2022 at 12:55 PM. Reason: additional info
#9
Good luck and when you get it, don't connect it to your bike right away. Use your meter and make the same checks to see if you have continuity across all 3 places when the key is in the on/run position. Once you verify that, then I'd think you could connect it up.
Keep us posted.
Keep us posted.