CBR 600F4 1999 - 2000 Honda CBR 600F4 Forum

No spark

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  #11  
Old 04-08-2024, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Connella08
diode failure on these bikes are common, and when it happens most people replace the ignition switch with an aftermarket one. some of these use a different color wire for the 9v source. pull your tail fairing off and look for the pink wire on your CDI box connector. check for 9v there to ground. if its 12, the diode has failed and needs to be replaced again.
I’ve seen this on other forums however my ignition multiplug only has 3 wires coming from it red, red/black, blue/orange, however just checked the pink wire at the cdi box and I’m only getting 2v so that seems to be my issue which I missed initially as the wiring diagram I’ve been following doesn’t have a pink wire going to the cdi box so not sure how to trace that pink wire without seeing it on the diagram




 
  #12  
Old 04-08-2024, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by kieron thomas

I don’t have a pink wire coming to the multi plug just red, red/black, blue/orange, can’t remove the ignition at the minute as one of the Allen bolts has rounded need to order an extractor
does the connector that this plugs into have 3 or 4 connections in it? I'm wondering if the ignition switch may have been replaced with the incorrect one.
 
  #13  
Old 04-08-2024, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Connella08
does the connector that this plugs into have 3 or 4 connections in it? I'm wondering if the ignition switch may have been replaced with the incorrect one.
only 3 wires in the other side of the plug that comes off the harness too, just noticed the immobiliser has 4 wires coming off that, one of them is a pink wire and just found a pink wire at the icm and that only has 2v on it could this be my issue do you think?
 
  #14  
Old 04-08-2024, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kieron thomas
only 3 wires in the other side of the plug that comes off the harness too, just noticed the immobiliser has 4 wires coming off that, one of them is a pink wire and just found a pink wire at the icm and that only has 2v on it could this be my issue do you think?
ah, you have the HISS system. 2v at the pink wire definitely sounds like its your smoking gun. you might have an issue with the immobilizer or for some reason it is not communicating with your key.
 
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Old 04-08-2024, 02:32 PM
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Guys thank you all for your help, I have found the issue which is a bigger head ache, it was bought as a project being told carbs needed cleaning, but found no spark, the key had tape around it which I thought nothing of but pulled it off because it looked tatty, turns out the chip inside for the HISS is missing! Any advice on where to go from here or has anyone managed to bypass the system?
 
  #16  
Old 04-08-2024, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by kieron thomas
Guys thank you all for your help, I have found the issue which is a bigger head ache, it was bought as a project being told carbs needed cleaning, but found no spark, the key had tape around it which I thought nothing of but pulled it off because it looked tatty, turns out the chip inside for the HISS is missing! Any advice on where to go from here or has anyone managed to bypass the system?
at this point, I would suspect the systems work fine and that the key lacking the RFID tag is the reason why you have no spark. that being said, you will need to buy a new key and have it programmed to work with the HISS. if you are feeling ambitious, you could test the theory by using a variable dc power supply and inject 9v directly to the pink wire to check if you get spark. if that works, you could find a way to wire up switched 9v power using a zenner diode to the ignition to bypass the HISS. not entire sure that would work, but it would be worth a shot if you don't want to go the route of getting a new key.
 
  #17  
Old 04-08-2024, 04:27 PM
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Not really sure if you can bypass the HISS system as I do not recall seing anyone posting a successful solution.
You can get the ecu reprogrammed with new keys fro here:
https://www.carmoelectronics.co.uk/i...1351_1355_1359
Not cheap but should work, I sure if you send you current key along with the ECU they will cut the new keys to match so should not need to replace the locks.
There may be other firms offering this service.

Oh, I knowbits highly unlikely but did you get a little metal tag with you key as that is whay you need to get another one cut without reprogramming the ecu. Just a thought.

Keep us updated on how you get on
 

Last edited by Al1040; 04-08-2024 at 04:29 PM.
  #18  
Old 04-08-2024, 05:26 PM
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Not sure anyone can reprogram F4 ICM as there's no re-writable memory in it.
Problem is how to extract RFID from existing ICM in order to program new chip for key.

Way they do newer EFI ECUs is program new RFID onto keys and ECU at same time so they match.
 
  #19  
Old 04-08-2024, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Connella08
at this point, I would suspect the systems work fine and that the key lacking the RFID tag is the reason why you have no spark. that being said, you will need to buy a new key and have it programmed to work with the HISS. if you are feeling ambitious, you could test the theory by using a variable dc power supply and inject 9v directly to the pink wire to check if you get spark. if that works, you could find a way to wire up switched 9v power using a zenner diode to the ignition to bypass the HISS. not entire sure that would work, but it would be worth a shot if you don't want to go the route of getting a new key.
Only U.S. bikes have diode and 9v to pink wire. On HISS systems, it's TTL digital communications, so it's actual data going back and forth on that line between HISS ring and ICM. Might fry ICM and HISS ring if you apply 9v to that line.

 
Attached Thumbnails No spark-hiss-immobilizercbr600.jpg  

Last edited by dannoxyz; 04-08-2024 at 05:59 PM.
  #20  
Old 04-08-2024, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kieron thomas
Guys thank you all for your help, I have found the issue which is a bigger head ache, it was bought as a project being told carbs needed cleaning, but found no spark, the key had tape around it which I thought nothing of but pulled it off because it looked tatty, turns out the chip inside for the HISS is missing! Any advice on where to go from here or has anyone managed to bypass the system?
Absolutely zero way to bypass HISS that I know of....

Search around HISS ring for tape or glue that may be holding ID chip on? You only need to have chip about 5cm away from ring for it to read. That's one way to replace broken ignition-switch and use different key.

One way to fix is to get U.S.-spec ICM and verify pin-outs match yours. Otherwise, de-pin terminals and re-insert into connector position with same function. Put tape over HISS light on clocks.
 

Last edited by dannoxyz; 04-08-2024 at 05:58 PM.


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