New ignition, bike won’t start please help!
#1
New ignition, bike won’t start please help!
Hi guys, been on these forums plenty and never needed to post until now so here I am.
Bike: 2000 cbr f4
Problem: Replaced the ignition (will post new ignition switch model below), now the bike cranks but won’t start. All the lights work, battery has charge.
New ignition assembly model: Alpha Rider Ignition Switch Fuel Gas Petrol Tank Cap Cover Lock Key Set for Honda CBR600RR F5 2003-2006 CBR929RR 2001-2002 CBR954RR 2002-2003 https://a.co/d/70QtOXS
Don’t know if I should take back off and use the old diode/switch base. Just at a loss.
Thanks guys.
Bike: 2000 cbr f4
Problem: Replaced the ignition (will post new ignition switch model below), now the bike cranks but won’t start. All the lights work, battery has charge.
New ignition assembly model: Alpha Rider Ignition Switch Fuel Gas Petrol Tank Cap Cover Lock Key Set for Honda CBR600RR F5 2003-2006 CBR929RR 2001-2002 CBR954RR 2002-2003 https://a.co/d/70QtOXS
Don’t know if I should take back off and use the old diode/switch base. Just at a loss.
Thanks guys.
#2
Hi @Mrreapsies and glad you made it out of the darkness and into the light... LOL. The F4 does utilize the pink wire from the Ignition Switch over to the ICM, they just don't document it. It is shown in the wiring diagram, but it is not part of the troubleshooting Was your bike working before you replaced the ignition switch?
As you can see, there is no mention of a Pink wire.
As you can see, there is no mention of a Pink wire.
#3
So the bike has been a total rehab, that said yes the bike was running and riding fine prior to the ignition switch swap. It was stolen some years back and recovered, the thief had used a screwdriver to start it, so I have been doing the same thing since recovery. After so many dirty looks at gas stations and the fear that anyone with a screwdriver could steal it, I finally decided to change it and now this.
#4
OK, then most likely it's due to the missing Zener diode that is located in the base of the ignition switch. In the switch you purchased, it is most likely connecting all the wires together. This provides 12v to all the wires from the battery which comes in on the Red wire. But, the pink wire is supposed to provide 9v to the ICM. This prevents someone from cutting the wires and jumping them. Naturally it doesn't prevent someone with a screwdriver like on yours. I had my wife's F3 taken once and that was how they did it. Just jammed a flat blade into it and twisted it.
A quick test would be to just swap the connection and plug the old switch into the wiring. If it starts, then you know this is the cause.
A quick test would be to just swap the connection and plug the old switch into the wiring. If it starts, then you know this is the cause.
#5
#6
No you don't want to splice the wires, you're just asking for problems down the line. You want your ignition switch to do what it's supposed to do, lock the bike and disable the ignition. If you can swap the base of your old ignition switch onto the new one, that would be an option. The other option is to get a new Zener diode and wire it in series with the wire that connects to the Pink wire. I think there are threads in this forum that indicate where you can get one. It should retail for less than $5.
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