Hello all!

Need some quick advice as I am about to do this tomorrow morning...

The manual says to lower the radiator to access the plugs but I tried earlier and could not get the rad to drop for the life of me. I took off both bolts but I couldn't get it off the cam or whatever.

With that said though, there are a few posts I've read that it's 10x easier to access the plugs from the top by removing tank and airbox. However, is this an easy task? What exactly do I need to do... step by step so I don't mess this up?

Also, as far as buying new sparkplugs. The manual says CR9EH-9 plugs and I've read NOT to substitute for anything else. Can I buy these plugs at an AutoZone or other auto store or are these motorcycle specific type plugs?

Thanks so much in advance.

 

For 3 bucks more go with the ngk iridiums you'll like them. You need to slide the radiator to the right but if you want to come in through the top it is pretty straight forward just be sure to close off the petcock for the gas tank.

 

Hey guys just wanted some advice on spark plugs--- the last time mine was changed was about 2 years ago-- recently my bike started acting up --it shuts off at idle when the bike gets warm and the fan turns on--other than that issue the bike runs great I'm just stuck when in traffic or at a light and if the fan kicks in, the rpmswill start fluctuating and eventually bike shuts down but it starts right back up-- I thought it was an electrical issue so I changed the battery , rectifier and the Stator and the problem still exists. Do you guys think new plugs would fix this issue?

 

TBH, it may not fix the problem, but would change them anyway. If it's when the fan kicks in it's like the electrical system isn't giving enough power to the bike so it just splutters.

 

Thanks Pugheaven, that's what I thought it was, an electrical issue so I changed out the rectifier, stator and battery and the issue still exists. I spoke to a experienced bike mechanic and he insists that its my water pump. He says the water pump is not circulating the water efficiently causing the bike to get hot and the fan turns on and the bike shuts off to protect it from overheating--does that make sense?

 

No^^^^^

 

I don't think the F4 is that intelligent lol. I 100% disagree although I'm no expert... our bikes wouldn't shut down at all.

To me, this does sound eletrcical but I'd never ever agree that the water pump could be causing this (although I'm not saying that there isn't a fault, it's not causing the biek to shut down!).

What you need a an electrical mechanic... come to your house, wire it all up and measure what happens throughout the bike when it gets hot etc. It's the only way as I can see you spending money on stuff that doesn't even need replacing now... think you need an electrician type person from the motor industry. They're all over the shop, bet they could find the cause...

 

Take the bike out on some open road with little to no traffic. Unplug the fan switch, when the bike gets warm enough to where the fan would kick on see if it still runs fine, since you said it runs fine until the fan kicks on. As long as the bike is moving at a reasonable speed the temp should go down. My F2 track bike with NO fan never ever gets even close to hot because its always moving. As long as your bike still runs good after its hot enough to make the fan come on if it was hooked up would tell you it is electrical issue with the fan.

 

^^^^^^^ This

 

So, back to the original post!!!
I am at the point where I have the tank off (87 CBR600Hurricane), and the top half of the air box off. Can't seem to figure out how to get the lower half off with those stubborn breather hoses joined to a three way hose below. As to getting to the plugs, not sure it will even help if I get the bottom part of the air box off or not. Looks like I still won't get a socket down in there
I could try from the front with the radiator plan, but I'm a bit stuck. I know I need new plugs in there.
TIPS ON ACCESSING SPARK PLUGS PLEASE!!!
Jeff