Hi (again guys) - requesting clarification.

So I have my bike out of storage, and the heated grip pads and relay at the ready.

I was looking closely at the wiring diagram kindly provided by corrupt file in this thread. I understand the "30" position attachment on bottom of relay(i.e. the wire from the grips controller switch). And I also understand the "86" position (left relay i.e. the ground). However, for the top (87) and right (85) positions it appears I will have to cut two existing wires already receiving power. Is this a correct interpretation?

If this is the case it appears I will need to insert 3 additional wires for this circuit:
1) to ground the relay (86).
2) to insert into the ignition powerd source (85, i.e. turn on the coil)
3) to insert into a fused wire going into the battery (87).

Which gauge of wire should I use for these? And what existing wires should I cut for this? (CBR 600F4).

Help is very much appreciated, and many thanks for help given so far.

BBP
(P.S. I managed to short my instrument panel and blow fuse trying to find ground )

 

This is the current wiring/wires available on fusebox and tail section.

Thanks! BBP

 

Forget wiring things in. Forget everything you're thinking.
This is the way forward.

TUCANO URBANO BAR MUFFS R361 NEOPRENE - WITH BAR END WEIGHT - Urban Rider London

Buy a pair and change the way you think about riding in the cold and wet forever.

 

Here's what's happening with the circuit...
The power circuit (the high volt/amp), is used to drive whatever accessories,
are attached to the relay. That would be the switch that couples 87 to 30.
It's basically the pass-through directly from the battery.
That's also, why there is a fuse between the battery and 87.

The switching circuit is 85 to 86. 85 is tied into a ignition key powered circuit.
Rear tail-lights are often used, because they come on with the key.
When 85 senses that the tail-light is hot it, it completes the 87-30 poles.

Thus providing a direct connection from the battery to your devices.


Hope this helps, Ern

 

Hi, thanks for the reply.
I think I understand what you're saying. Then, I will need to cut two wires to make the relay work. One from the tail-light (i.e. red wire in the photo above), and one from the "B" position at the fuse box?

BBP

 

I wouldn't cut any switch for headlights, tail lights, turn signals etc... The relay has a certain resistance (usually around 50-100 ohms) which will dim your light. I know I put that in my diagram but I have rethought it. Use your licence plate light (no harm in dimming that ).

Here is a thread about HIDs. On the 2nd page I did a video on the install using a relay switch by the oil pressue light. Same idea.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-mecha...stalls-143337/

 

Thanks for the info.

Well, my bike has aftermarket rear panel, if you notice on the second pic, there is a free connection, but I don't mind cutting the red wire of the tail lights - although there is 3 wires going to it (red, yellow, and black), red should work yeah?

According to the wiring diagram for F4 there's a R/B wire leading from the "ignition switch" going into 10A fuse, and a B wire after leading to the "engine stop switch". Should I cut this one and twist in a wire from the relay? These are the two wires on the left in the attached picture? Please confirm?

Thanks,
BBP

TLR? Cut red tail-light for coil, cut black at fuse box leading from B/R?

 

You only have to cut one factory wire for this. If you add a relay in series to a tail light, you will dim the light, which you do not want. Adding in parallel is ok, like the LP light is.

So why are you talking about cutting into the ignition or stop switch?

 

I only cut one factory wire? Assuming I cut the wire for the tail-light (or LP light, which isn't powering anything at present), how do I connect the ""87" port on relay to the power (i.e. battery) that supplies the power to the actual hand grips? I thought I was piggy-backing onto something that already was going through the fuse box (i.e. the black wire). I thought this was the case since in your original diagram there was a fuse between the relay and the battery, which I assumed I have to cut a "fused wire" and tap into that. Can I directly place a wire going from 87 to the battery? Which fuse does it go through?

BBP

 

Ok you could draw the power from the bikes harness after a fused connection. You could also wire the 87 directly to the battery (with an inline fuse). I think wiring directly to the battery is much easier tho, and won't risk overheating any connectors from too much current draw.

You can get inline fuses from any autoparts store. Get the ones that hold blade fuses so it uses the same one as your bike does.