Friction Zone
#1
Friction Zone
I've searched this topic an couldn't seem to find anything useful so her it goes:
I ride a 99 F4, 30k miles (closer to 31k), and she's an absolute beauty. She could use a little TLC but that comes with time
Now to the subject of this thread, my friction zone is very small, which makes starting from stand still very difficult, a task made all the more difficult by the fact that I'm a beginner rider. I hate stopping for this reason, as if stopping on a motorcycle needed to be any less fun lol. I stall quite frequently as a result of this tiny friction zone.
Basically I've tried adjusting my clutch cable to no avail, and was wondering if there's some other way to adjust friction zone. I want it bigger, so that clutch begins to engage at about 50% of release on the lever and fully engages on complete let go (obviously). I'll settle for smaller then that anything would be an improvement really.
As is the friction zone begins at about 97% of clutch lever release, leaving me very little room to get the bike rolling before opening up the throttle, so no power walks :/. This dilemma also makes balancing lever release and throttle application a P.I.T.A. lol
Any advice is much appreciated, TIA to all those willing to read and reply.
Blessings, ride safe!
I ride a 99 F4, 30k miles (closer to 31k), and she's an absolute beauty. She could use a little TLC but that comes with time
Now to the subject of this thread, my friction zone is very small, which makes starting from stand still very difficult, a task made all the more difficult by the fact that I'm a beginner rider. I hate stopping for this reason, as if stopping on a motorcycle needed to be any less fun lol. I stall quite frequently as a result of this tiny friction zone.
Basically I've tried adjusting my clutch cable to no avail, and was wondering if there's some other way to adjust friction zone. I want it bigger, so that clutch begins to engage at about 50% of release on the lever and fully engages on complete let go (obviously). I'll settle for smaller then that anything would be an improvement really.
As is the friction zone begins at about 97% of clutch lever release, leaving me very little room to get the bike rolling before opening up the throttle, so no power walks :/. This dilemma also makes balancing lever release and throttle application a P.I.T.A. lol
Any advice is much appreciated, TIA to all those willing to read and reply.
Blessings, ride safe!
#3
#5
+1 Shiffts, you should be able to adjust the cable on both ends, typically you get it close with the adjustment on the clutch cover, then you can fine tune it at the lever.
Also keep in mind that it's a wet clutch, designed to help control your speed in 1st gear. It's okay to ride these clutches a little.
Also keep in mind that it's a wet clutch, designed to help control your speed in 1st gear. It's okay to ride these clutches a little.
#6
Thanks stellar I just got done making the adjustments then rode her around a bit. I managed to change where the clutch engages so it engages much sooner during lever release but the size of the "friction zone" is still about the same. Like you said I just worked on riding the clutch a bit, really focusing on how much throttle application is needed to get her rolling. The earlier engage is certainly to my advantage.
#9
Glad your clutch cable issue is better. Not sure how you went about adjusting it, but you may get more friction zone by grabbing the cable with needle nose pliers and working your way to a tighter cable.
I don't mess with the adjustment up top since my F3 has a set of aftermarket levers (forget the name, bike is in pieces and the handlebar instruments and whatnot are in the garage) that let me simply pull the lever out/forwards and adjust a roller/clicker. 6 different individual settings for both brake and clutch. I can change the friction zone from 90% of the lever travel distance (levers are farthest out at this point) to 5-10% (levers are closest to the grips). Really nice being able to change the riding style within 2 seconds. I change them on the highway sometimes when I suddenly feel sporadic and want to change gears in an aggressive way. Having control of how "hard" or "spongy" your brakes are is very nice as well.
I once grabbed a bit too much front brake when avoiding some cager who squeezed (and I mean really squeezed herself) between me and the car ahead of me. Didn't check her side view, I was watching her. I was prepared to brake but totally forgot that I had left my brakes on stiff. When they're set on stiff/hard...man...it feels like night and day when comparing it to riding with the softer settings. Not sure if you've had the chance to drive an Audi, but my folks 05 A4 has an INSANE amount of braking power. Granted it has some technologies that my camry doesn't have...but still. You can seriously feel the difference. Well that's what it's like with the brake adjustments on my F3. Can be made into a leisurely driver or a very responsive beast. Steel braided brake lines help too Food for thought. 50-80 dollar investment for the levers (fleabay; I've seen people linking them before) to make your bike that much more responsive to the inputs you give it. In my books: totally worth it.
While not recommended...when you've got 5-10% friction zone...it's REALLY easy (read: FUN) to do a clutchless shift. *cough* I mean...look it's a fast cat!
I don't mess with the adjustment up top since my F3 has a set of aftermarket levers (forget the name, bike is in pieces and the handlebar instruments and whatnot are in the garage) that let me simply pull the lever out/forwards and adjust a roller/clicker. 6 different individual settings for both brake and clutch. I can change the friction zone from 90% of the lever travel distance (levers are farthest out at this point) to 5-10% (levers are closest to the grips). Really nice being able to change the riding style within 2 seconds. I change them on the highway sometimes when I suddenly feel sporadic and want to change gears in an aggressive way. Having control of how "hard" or "spongy" your brakes are is very nice as well.
I once grabbed a bit too much front brake when avoiding some cager who squeezed (and I mean really squeezed herself) between me and the car ahead of me. Didn't check her side view, I was watching her. I was prepared to brake but totally forgot that I had left my brakes on stiff. When they're set on stiff/hard...man...it feels like night and day when comparing it to riding with the softer settings. Not sure if you've had the chance to drive an Audi, but my folks 05 A4 has an INSANE amount of braking power. Granted it has some technologies that my camry doesn't have...but still. You can seriously feel the difference. Well that's what it's like with the brake adjustments on my F3. Can be made into a leisurely driver or a very responsive beast. Steel braided brake lines help too Food for thought. 50-80 dollar investment for the levers (fleabay; I've seen people linking them before) to make your bike that much more responsive to the inputs you give it. In my books: totally worth it.
While not recommended...when you've got 5-10% friction zone...it's REALLY easy (read: FUN) to do a clutchless shift. *cough* I mean...look it's a fast cat!
Last edited by Shiffts; 02-22-2012 at 04:32 AM.
#10