Finally fixed the cbr
So some of you might have already read some of my posts. My cbr was not running for about a year, and after many fixes it turned out to be a stupid sensor. To be precise the pulse generator, we are back on the road now and about 100 km allong it is running amazing. I would almost say better. But now I am looking at future proving reliability.
What I have already done:
-installing a facet 40171 that runs at stock pressure.
-overhaul and clean all the fuel lines and plugs
-revise the carbs
-replace the coils(used but tested)
-rewired the sensitive positive wire to the spark coil.
-replaced 2 relays and all fuses
I plan on:
-replacing my battery
-replacing my r&r
-flushing coolant
-maybe some efficient LED but not sure
Now 2 questions
-do you guys have any plug and play options for a mosfet r&r preferably one that sends it internationally or trusted on ebay
-any other future proving options
What I have already done:
-installing a facet 40171 that runs at stock pressure.
-overhaul and clean all the fuel lines and plugs
-revise the carbs
-replace the coils(used but tested)
-rewired the sensitive positive wire to the spark coil.
-replaced 2 relays and all fuses
I plan on:
-replacing my battery
-replacing my r&r
-flushing coolant
-maybe some efficient LED but not sure
Now 2 questions
-do you guys have any plug and play options for a mosfet r&r preferably one that sends it internationally or trusted on ebay
-any other future proving options
Well done for getting it fixed.
Electrex in the UK have a good reputation for R/R, be careful when using LED's as they can cause the R/R to run very hot dispersing the extra power that the LED's no longer need.
https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-...2Ehtml#SID=439
Battery and coolant always a good idea.
Brake hoses might be one to also consider
Electrex in the UK have a good reputation for R/R, be careful when using LED's as they can cause the R/R to run very hot dispersing the extra power that the LED's no longer need.
https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-...2Ehtml#SID=439
Battery and coolant always a good idea.
Brake hoses might be one to also consider
Well done for getting it fixed.
Electrex in the UK have a good reputation for R/R, be careful when using LED's as they can cause the R/R to run very hot dispersing the extra power that the LED's no longer need.
https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-...2Ehtml#SID=439
Battery and coolant always a good idea.
Brake hoses might be one to also consider
Electrex in the UK have a good reputation for R/R, be careful when using LED's as they can cause the R/R to run very hot dispersing the extra power that the LED's no longer need.
https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-...2Ehtml#SID=439
Battery and coolant always a good idea.
Brake hoses might be one to also consider
I will def check out their r&r and I also heard everyone talk about the Shindengen FH020AA or FH012AA.
You are very welcome.
The Shindengen regulators are the newer mossfet type that have better technology and do not run as hot. Unfortunately there are a lot of fake ones on the 'bay' that are not mossfet R/R's, unfortunately in this instance you do get what you pay for. Anything less that 80ish Euros will be fake, there are guides on u-tube how to spot them but as always the fakers are getting better so be careful.
I believe that Electrex regulators also use mossfet technology, best to check with them.
The Shindengen regulators are the newer mossfet type that have better technology and do not run as hot. Unfortunately there are a lot of fake ones on the 'bay' that are not mossfet R/R's, unfortunately in this instance you do get what you pay for. Anything less that 80ish Euros will be fake, there are guides on u-tube how to spot them but as always the fakers are getting better so be careful.
I believe that Electrex regulators also use mossfet technology, best to check with them.
Alright, I will def check out the r&r of electrex, for now I am wondering since my bike is getting at the famous age of the cct going bad(29200km). If I should order a new cct to be either safe or have as a back up. What do you think about that, and would you go with an oem cct or a manual cct as the opinions are divided about it.
I was looking at either an oem cct, or the APE mcct.
Btw after 700-1000ish km the bike’s been running almost flawlessly since the repairs, but I’ve had a recurring issue on the highway. Occasionally, the RPMs won’t climb past a certain point—first time at 200 km/h, then a day or 2 later at 180, 140, and 160 km/h. Backing off the throttle and rolling on again seems to fix it. The rpm point is more or less random sometimes at 7k or 10k. This happened before when I didn't have a fuel pump and was low on gas. In this instance my gas tank may have been low. I jmtries to clean out the gas tank vent with compressed air and guitar strings, so far I haven't ran into the issue again.
I was looking at either an oem cct, or the APE mcct.
Btw after 700-1000ish km the bike’s been running almost flawlessly since the repairs, but I’ve had a recurring issue on the highway. Occasionally, the RPMs won’t climb past a certain point—first time at 200 km/h, then a day or 2 later at 180, 140, and 160 km/h. Backing off the throttle and rolling on again seems to fix it. The rpm point is more or less random sometimes at 7k or 10k. This happened before when I didn't have a fuel pump and was low on gas. In this instance my gas tank may have been low. I jmtries to clean out the gas tank vent with compressed air and guitar strings, so far I haven't ran into the issue again.
If you can get an OEM CCT for a reasonable price I would go for that, they have had a couple of revision and I think two blue dots is the latest one.
Fingers crossed you have sorted the fueling issue with the clean.
Fingers crossed you have sorted the fueling issue with the clean.
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