Hey all,
Recently i was on my way home from work, it was a rather cold night (cold for me is below 50 since i live in florida) so i was kind of a hurry. I didn't leave the choke open for a very long time because i was freezing. I was going about 50 mph when all of a sudden i couldn't accelerate anymore and realized that my bike had turned off and the oil light came on. I read in a different thread that the choke should be open for quite a while to get the bike ready to go properly. Was that where i made the mistake? or is there some other problem? I am also curious as to what rpm range should it idle with the choke off. and how to adjust it if i need to

 

Don't believe the choke has anything to do with bike shutting down? If you flooded the sparks, bike will just not start.

Can you describe a bit about your bike, make, year, how many mile? History?

What happen after bike shut off? Did you pull over and had it tow home? Or were you able to start it up and head home?

What was the temp reading? Did you check all liquid? Oil?

 

I have an F4 with around 23500 miles (99). The temp was normal, i couldn't check the oil because i was on the side of the road at night, the bike started again but i had it towed home. I went for a quick ride just last night and it was running fine. I didn't take it as fast or out as long as when i was on my way home from work. But i'm kind of new to motorcycles so i didn't really know what to do besides tow it home to be safe.

 

It's a wise choice to tow it home...you wouldn't want to further damage anything.

I would suggest check all liquid....oil, coolant etc...

Was bike exposed to rain? Recently? Water maybe in the fuel?

How about your kill switch? Is it working properly? I know it's stupid to ask but what's the chance you may have bump the kill switch?

Hope F4 members will jump in and advice input...

 

When I tried to restart before the towing came, I had the choke off and it didn't turn over. Just tried to turn over. But then I tried it with the choke open and it turned on. I don't think I hit the kill switch but I'll definitely check all fluids. I just don't know how to, I know there is that little window for oil, but what else do I do to check the other fluids?

 

Idle should be set at 1300-1500, depending on climate.

The adjustment screw is on the right side & can be seen in the pic in this thread... https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f4...estion-134389/. R turn increases RPM...a little turn goes a long way.

Not sure why your bike cut off w/o further info. There's any number of reasons. Be sure to check the service manual for troubleshooting. If you don't have it already, there are links here on the forum to download the service manual pdf.

 

ever had any problems with the side stand switch? my bike had a shorted out wire when i got it that caused the bike to shut down when i went over a harsh enough bump.. replaced the switch problem solved

+1 for hitting the kill switch ive done it!!

 

Never had a problem with it at all

 

Sounds electrical...based on the oil light coming on, it could be a short in the wire harness, and/or a sticking relay. I have an electric diagram for that bike, but cannot post crap like that (I'm still new to the forum). The other thing this model has a *ahem" bit of a history with, is the rectifier/charging system. I had many wrench-throwing sessions before I homed in on a tired old battery and failing rectifier that would cause my bike to die (2000 F4).

In my case, the symptoms were as follows:
When it first started, it would spit and sputter at low RPM/low MPH, and I would have to hold the throttle at about 5k rpm to keep it running. Taking off by damn near dropping the clutch and pumping the throttle would usually get er to go, but then anytime rpms dropped below 4-5k, it wanted to die.

It got progressively worse thru that next week, until it would not even start (would crank weakly, but not kick over). Replaced with brand new quality name battery, rode OK for about 15min, then right back to same symptoms once batt drained down - Rectifier was not charging battery.

Eventually I replaced the Rectifier with a new aftermarket replacement, and it too failed within the next couple of weeks (this was mid-summer, 80-90deg, high humidity), I think the heat got to it, plus it was poor quality.

If i were you, I would start looking into wiring/short issues, and either borrow/buy a battery load tester - make sure it is a good quality LOAD tester, not just a voltage tester....you want to put a LOAD - or "drain" - on the battery to test its integrity, not just how charged up it is.

Try this and see what you find.
Adam

 

with your choke, have it on full when you start the bike and let it warm up.. my F$ takes about 8 minutes to warm up.. when its warm let off the choke fully and THEN you can ride. if you cannot let off the choke fully then heres what ya do:

choke on full, start bike. when warm, turn idle screw up, let off choke, then bring idle screw down until rpms are around 1300-1500 depending.

dont ride with the choke on cuz it fouls up your plugs lol. it seems like if your bike turned off but then ran fine, its electrical. mechanical would mean it always does it based on the right or certain factors. check your battery connections and remove your seat to check the connections on the right side of the tail. maybe the R/R (regular/rectifier) is loose.. or maybe the kickstand sensor needs a replacing. check all those and let us know how it goes