I'd just start riding it and see what limits you come up against. Suspension upgrades are great, but expensive, and depending on your skill level and physical size, you may not need anything better.

 

thanks for the input, ill what it feels like. im 5'11 155 so not to big. but iv herd that the rear shocks can be soft, so maybe it might bea place to start.
thanks

 

Well, the preload range on the shock should cover roughly between a 140 to 170lbs rider, so you should be ok once you get it set up right. The nicest about a aftermarket shock on a F4 is adjustable rider height, they turn in a lot better with a little more height in the rear, plus you gain a little bit of ground clearance when leaned over.. but again until you're getting real serious as the track, this wont really matter to ya.

 

thanks for the help.any other sugestions out there?

 

First, get the bike to fit you...lever positions, shifter position and so on.

Also a tune up...fresh plugs, carb cleaning and sync, check the valves, air and fuel filter. Put in a quality synthetic oil...AMS, Rotella, Mobil, Redline...whatever. Having the bike in good condition when you get there is one less distraction to worry about....then youCAN focus on riding.

For what to mod....Tires - OEM rubberwill reach limits. M3's, Pilot Powers...other street/track mix tires exist.

Next -brakes....better pads...and if you can afford it braided lines, bleedwith freshsynthetic DOT4 fluid either way.

At your weight, the OEM springs are about right. The rear shock could be revalved for about $150 by Track Side Engineering. Forks would be around $275 for gold valves and labor. But, the OEM stuff is pretty good on a reasonably smooth track as is.

Most bikes benefit from going up a couple teethon the back sprocket and down 1 in the front. Don;t worry about what gear you are in on the straights....having appropriate engine speed in and out of corners is more important.

Don't forget to "mod" yourself....some good riding technique books are out there, talk to track coaches at any track days. You approach then and they'll gladly help...they don't seek out people that are doing OK. Look for one and ask him to dance then next session with you.

 

thanks for the in put. ill be sure to do a good run down over ther bike a change the nessary things. thanks for all the tips.

 

Well if I may chime in over here although I am brand new on this board but this should not fool you… To say that 600f is a track bike and not a race bike is somewhat misleading. If you lower the front sprocket to 15 and fit rear-sets, put on track rubber or slicks, stiffen up front and rear shocks all you need is a ridding ability to make your baby fly. You will run at most 1-2 second behind fastest new 600’s with a very skilled rider on board. Remember with ridding it’s mainly in the skill. I whack 1000 cc bikes non stop, they can only pull away on the straights but then they have greater top speed so need to go on brakes earlier. I have a rider on my local track (ex GP track - Grobnik in Croatia – very fast track – not ideally suited to 600’s) where he is running neck by neck with the 1000cc bikes and the new 600RR, the 636 riders. If you however have a fierce competition and they are all on new bikes than you might have a bit of a problem, but this doesn’t usually happen at the amateur level. You might not win but you will see the podium if you have the skill…

I hope this helps, so go for it.

 

thanks for the input. anys is good LOL. i jus got some tires so im getting close to havin a st/track bike.

 

In case you are interested how it all works in the real world, this is my 600f chasing a thou... and this was before I fitted a 15tooth front sprocket.

http://www.communicormedia.com/grobnikonboard.wmv

 

I say leave the gearing alone. Dropping the front just kills your top end on the straights, and most good tracks have a spot where you can use most if not all of the top speed.