Budget F4 TD/Race Build
#11
03-12-2011, 07:31 PM
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#12
03-14-2011, 11:50 PM
nice work on the swap.
the shocks are the same length but the 600rr spring is longer which means that there is a longer stroke in the linakges on the RR than the F4 for whats probably the same wheel travel - do you think this will throw the suspension off? i mean the RR spring has to be softer in order to achieve the same characteristics if it has more travel. i would surmise that a stiffer spring then what would used for your weight would be required in this scenario.
the stock rr spring on there is rated for 240lbs so its porbably too stiff.
the shocks are the same length but the 600rr spring is longer which means that there is a longer stroke in the linakges on the RR than the F4 for whats probably the same wheel travel - do you think this will throw the suspension off? i mean the RR spring has to be softer in order to achieve the same characteristics if it has more travel. i would surmise that a stiffer spring then what would used for your weight would be required in this scenario.
the stock rr spring on there is rated for 240lbs so its porbably too stiff.
#14
03-25-2011, 08:15 PM
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I'm done with this site. One of the bitch moderators banned me for a week for "talking back". I don't have the time to deal with **** like that.
I was going to delete all of my posts but decided against it.
If you want to see build updates, go to:
"New" track bike!!! - Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum
I'll be putting the forks back together soon. This bike will be done before the end of April.
Good luck everyone!
EDIT: Mods, please delete my account.
I was going to delete all of my posts but decided against it.
If you want to see build updates, go to:
"New" track bike!!! - Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum
I'll be putting the forks back together soon. This bike will be done before the end of April.
Good luck everyone!
EDIT: Mods, please delete my account.
Just let it roll off your shoulder and don't let it get to you.
#16
05-19-2011, 11:33 AM
the behavior you are describing is not electrical, because it seems the power isn't enough to pull on through the gears. in fifth it probably won't even go up to 8K.
a few things I'd check would be that the wheels spin freely. next would be the fuel flow, and last look at the plugs to see if they all have proper mixture.
another option to verify that all the cylinders are working is to put a drop of oil on each exhaust head. if one of them smokes considerably less it means it isn't heating up, because there isn't fuel burning. that could be also because one of the spark plugs ain't working, and so the engine doesn't have the oomphs.
and what is CF?
a few things I'd check would be that the wheels spin freely. next would be the fuel flow, and last look at the plugs to see if they all have proper mixture.
another option to verify that all the cylinders are working is to put a drop of oil on each exhaust head. if one of them smokes considerably less it means it isn't heating up, because there isn't fuel burning. that could be also because one of the spark plugs ain't working, and so the engine doesn't have the oomphs.
and what is CF?
#17
05-19-2011, 12:51 PM
Avi, per the measurements I was given of the 08 600RR shock, there should be no problem with fitment. When I get the shock I'll have a better understanding of this, but I think it should go smoothly. The free lengths of the shocks are VERY close if not the same.
The valving on the RRs shock is night and day compared to the F4s. We're talking about a street/tourer bike from 10 years ago compared to a race replica...the changes are many. The spring weight for the RR is an 11kg which is pretty stiff. That should work well for a 200-220lb rider (with gear) and still be soft enough for lighter riders. When choosing springs on RaceTechs website the spring that was needed for my weight was only 1kg more than stock. If I'm lucky, I should be able to just leave the stock sprung the way it is. If not, I buy a $110 spring and replace it...not bad considering how much money has gone into updating the rear compared to respringing/revalving an outdated shock to the tune of $300.
Regardless, I'll update with pics when I install the shock. I'll be sure to take good measurement for everyone.
As for the paint scheme...if I get my way, it won't e black and yellow forever. But that's top secret.
And I DO like the black and yellow, after all it's the colors of the greatest football team of all time....STEELERS!!!
The valving on the RRs shock is night and day compared to the F4s. We're talking about a street/tourer bike from 10 years ago compared to a race replica...the changes are many. The spring weight for the RR is an 11kg which is pretty stiff. That should work well for a 200-220lb rider (with gear) and still be soft enough for lighter riders. When choosing springs on RaceTechs website the spring that was needed for my weight was only 1kg more than stock. If I'm lucky, I should be able to just leave the stock sprung the way it is. If not, I buy a $110 spring and replace it...not bad considering how much money has gone into updating the rear compared to respringing/revalving an outdated shock to the tune of $300.
Regardless, I'll update with pics when I install the shock. I'll be sure to take good measurement for everyone.
As for the paint scheme...if I get my way, it won't e black and yellow forever. But that's top secret.
And I DO like the black and yellow, after all it's the colors of the greatest football team of all time....STEELERS!!!
Mine too is the Greatest colors ever. I am a huge Steelers fan. Unfortunately my bike was a wreck when I bought it. Runs great 11k on the clock but the new tank as of now is red and black and the nose and tail fairings are silver with the lower sides black and yellow. Looks like an ad for crayola....lol
When I get to the paint it will be all black. Why you ask well I am also in the process of painting my trailer and have lots of black paint to use up so black it is. Plus that is the fastest color anyway.... :-)
I am not touching the suspension as of right now maybe in the future but this summer my goal is to get it trackable. I just got new rims for it last week and picked up the nose and tail last night.
I had to put the bike on the bottom of my to do list cause I totaled my blazer last week and needed to buy a truck so the bike will be waiting a while so I can get caught up again. I hope to get back to it in a couple weeks.
Keep up the good work on your bike.
#18
05-19-2011, 03:59 PM
OK, I read it from top to bottom over there, but I am too lazy to open a user and reply there
about the pair valve from the ZX7, there is also a similar mod for the CBR600. look around this forum for a guide or reference.
for tuning the carbs, there is a small guide aon this site, which gives this link to factory's pro guide:
CV Carb Tuning Procedures
use it!
13-14V maybe too low, I don't remember. I suggest you check the manual. if you don't have it you can find links on this site, or if you don't find it I will upload it.
and yes, if you have the free flow K&N, as opposed to the standard replacement, you should still tune the carbs. and also get a free flow pipe
about the pair valve from the ZX7, there is also a similar mod for the CBR600. look around this forum for a guide or reference.
for tuning the carbs, there is a small guide aon this site, which gives this link to factory's pro guide:
CV Carb Tuning Procedures
use it!
13-14V maybe too low, I don't remember. I suggest you check the manual. if you don't have it you can find links on this site, or if you don't find it I will upload it.
and yes, if you have the free flow K&N, as opposed to the standard replacement, you should still tune the carbs. and also get a free flow pipe
#19
05-20-2011, 12:15 AM
now that you say, indeed there is a lot of info and thread here about the R/R.
as for the jets, if you don't intend to by a pipe, I doubt a free flow filter and jetting will give that much extra power. if you are running lean and short on cash, look on ebay for a good oem replacement. I found a K&N oem replacement for 30$.
as for the jets, if you don't intend to by a pipe, I doubt a free flow filter and jetting will give that much extra power. if you are running lean and short on cash, look on ebay for a good oem replacement. I found a K&N oem replacement for 30$.
#20
05-21-2011, 04:39 AM
The headlight issue had nothing to do with the R/R as it passed all tests. The issue is a broken solder joint in the starter switch that apparently powers the headlight. I think in this model CBR, the headlight relay/switch is in the starter button. Retarded, but true.
on non US bikes like mine there is a lights switch there along with the starter and engine kill switch. you only have a bypass there.