another charging problem
I bought a new battery august. Battery will not stay charged, i can go about 100 miles before it dies. i have done all the test on here for checking the stator and the reg. only question i have is when i have the voltmeter on the battery and i rev the bike up to 3grand it doesnt shoot straight up to 13.5v -14v, it slowly builds up to 13.5.
I just moved to west texas and its been nice weather for the past 2 months and i need to get this fixed so i can be out there riding, any help would be great.
I just moved to west texas and its been nice weather for the past 2 months and i need to get this fixed so i can be out there riding, any help would be great.
Welcome to the forum.
If I had to diagnose based only on the statement in your quote that I underlined, I would have immediately suggested you take a look at your R/R. Honda superseded the old F4 version for a newer finned version, that is more reliable & less prone to failure (I've documented this in my older posts on the subject w/ part numbers, etc).
While the stator can be problematic in a situation like this, its less likely. Stators typically don't fail easily...usually some sort of impact or damage to the stator is necessary to generate its failure.
Your battery, while relatively new, how has it been stored since last August? That was 7 mos ago. Has it been on a trickle charger/battery tender? Has the bike been run in that 7 mos? Too, its possible that the battery was defective or weak when new. Perhaps remove it & have a second test done it by the shop to verify your findings & go from there.
Hope you get it figured out.
I bought a new battery august. Battery will not stay charged, i can go about 100 miles before it dies. i have done all the test on here for checking the stator and the reg. only question i have is when i have the voltmeter on the battery and i rev the bike up to 3grand it doesnt shoot straight up to 13.5v -14v, it slowly builds up to 13.5.
While the stator can be problematic in a situation like this, its less likely. Stators typically don't fail easily...usually some sort of impact or damage to the stator is necessary to generate its failure.
Your battery, while relatively new, how has it been stored since last August? That was 7 mos ago. Has it been on a trickle charger/battery tender? Has the bike been run in that 7 mos? Too, its possible that the battery was defective or weak when new. Perhaps remove it & have a second test done it by the shop to verify your findings & go from there.
Hope you get it figured out.
i been riding here and there the past 7 months, just when it goes died i hook it up to the charger. my old battery i can charge it up, throw it on the bike and hook the voltmeter to the batery and rev the bike up and the volts wont even really move at all. so when i bought this new battery from the shop back in kentucky they guy put it on charge and i picked it up the next day, i wonder if the guy really put it on the charger.
Im going to run the battery up to the shop and have them test it. like i said i did all the test on the reg/rec and the stator and the only thing i questioned was when i reved the bike up it slowly climbed up to 13.5v with the newer battery, with the old battery would even move.
Im going to run the battery up to the shop and have them test it. like i said i did all the test on the reg/rec and the stator and the only thing i questioned was when i reved the bike up it slowly climbed up to 13.5v with the newer battery, with the old battery would even move.
OdessaF4, I recommend downloading the F4 Service Manual (links here on the forum). Refer to Section 16 - Charging System, starts on Pg 305. All the specs & test procedures are listed.
Current leakage = 0.1
R/R = 0.1 - 1.0
Good luck.
Current leakage = 0.1
R/R = 0.1 - 1.0
Good luck.
To clarify my previous post, for a fully charged battery, 0.1 is maximum. So if you got 0 voltage drop, 0 = good.
I'd redo/verify the tests for the battery, see if the battery will hold a charge, test the R/R, compare results, & go from there.
I'd redo/verify the tests for the battery, see if the battery will hold a charge, test the R/R, compare results, & go from there.


