The regulator rectifier is a big problem. I have read that the newer ones from the stealership are updated models with cooling fins. I also have this problem down here in atlanta. It only happens when the fan is running, its been a bad enough stumble before that ive almost dropped the bike. It is plenty enough to make you nervous when making a left turn from a stop when traffic is coming the other way. It could be good or bad, good in a sense it will make you wait for no cars, or bad for the guys who dont like waiting. I have actually had mine completely cut off in a mall parking lot on a bike night while talking to another rider. The needle never climbed more than 3/4 way so i know it wasnt running hot. Ill follow this thread and see if anyone finds a solid cure for it. I have thought about changing the fuel pump, but if your findings are as woot said and they turned out to be electrical/spark related then a new fuel pump wont help.

 

Like I said it is deffinatly a voltage problem, And yes I have had mine die several times. It will do it everytime the fan comes on. If you put a meter on it and watch the voltage goes down. I have a Rectifier coming for it, We will see what this does for it. With so many people having the same problem someone know's what the proper fix is.. Dont we have any Honda tech's on here. I'm sure one rolls into the dealership and they know exactly what the problem is. The Honda Manual sucks for diagnoising compared to our GM manuals.

We will figure it out some time or another.

Brian

 

Its the R/R. When it overheats it starts causing problems. I think the best solution to this is mount a computer fan on it.

 

R/R ??? normal ppl terms rectifier?

jetting absoutly help my problem but not a total fix

 

Hi Guys

I noticed this thread hasn't been updated since 08.
Has anyone found a solution for this ?
My 2000 F4 still stalls when the fan comes on ?
It's really annoying and takes the joy out of riding. Can anyone help ?

 

How low is the tickover (idle) before the fan kicks in ?

Have you had the battery load tested ? - a duff battery will cause the generator to do a lot of work to run the fan. The generator will load up the engine and could pull the tickover (idle) down to a stall.

 

alright sooo i'm having the same issue with mine or well sort of. my issue is that it bucks/stalls at any temperature. when i first kick it on its fine once i get down the road i'm ****ed it bucks pretty bad and stalls at least once or twice a mile. again any temperature. its a 2006 model. and so far this is the most helpful thread i've found on this issue....sadly.......i cant do much because its REALLY dangerous riding around this area like that people are here do not watch for motorcyclists and alot of drunks drive around here. and its my only vehicle....i have the tools to take apart my bike and all that as well as i have a trickle charger.......could it be just a bad battery and i need to replace my battery??? i did have it die on me awhile back due to a headlight issue that happened to the bike. hopefully get some feedback before i have to go to work monday.......cause i rather stay off the roads until its fixed cause bucking and stalling with trucks all around you and riding your *** is not fun at all.....

edit:

and yes i do realize my model is a f4i and not a f4....but again this is the closest thread i've been able to find thats not dated back to 2008 and with no answer....even though this thread was just recently rose from the grave.

 

Hi Guys,

My bike has the same issue. Like many of you said, it is an electrical issue. Fan comes on, starts to drain the battery. Idle is too low to keep up with the electrical demand. Fuel pump stops working properly & there is no electricity for spark and Tuuukhhhhh, you bike stalls with the fan noise still coming.

Things different people have tried & issue wasn't fixed:

1) Changed the stator
2) changed the rectifier
3) replaced ignition coils because they thought they are drawing too much power
4) Replaced the cooling Fan thinking it might be drawing too much power
5) cleaned all of the electric connections & packed them with dielectric grease
6) replaced all bulbs on the bike

None of them found the perfect cure, but all of the things made it less worse.

If done all at the same time, it might fix the issue but it can cost you more then $2000 if you do all the labour yourself. So, its not worth it.

Truth is, Honda didn't design the electrical system with enough leniency, thus over time all components lost their efficiency and create this annoying situation.

The bitter truth is all of F4 owners will have to suffer during rush hour traffic. We can only do things to make things better but not cure it.

__________________________________________________ _____

The cheapest solution that worked for me:

Removed the fuel pump and connected it directly to carbs. Also, when the bike heats up & the fan comes on, I increase the idle to 2000+ & it keeps me going.

With this method your bike won't stall but it will still drain out your battery and it won't charge until your rectifier cools down again (I tested it myself). So I am thinking of installing a small fan on the rectifier for quick battery recovery.

Should work until I save up enough to buy a new bike.

 

cop4200 - The standard reg/rec is a shunt type - it is not very efficient and it does not charge below around 1600rpm.

The honda blackbird uses the same type of reg/rec and has the same issues.

Popular mod is to swap the reg/rec for a MOSFET type - the FH012AA or the FH020AA are found on the later yamaha R1 bikes and are much more efficient.

They charge at idle speed, they are rated for 50A so they are almost not doing any work to run a 600 or the blackbird.

Best mod you can do to a honda charging system

 

Ok, here goes. electrical systems and electrical components don't like heat, after time corroded wires and old electrical components cause a lot of stress on the entire sytem. It also will effect the current going to the spark plugs (stalling when hot issue). especially on these bikes. Corrosion, bad/ old wires to add to that don't help. I've delt with this issue on mine. To fix the problem I replaced all electrical components and wires (nearly every single one), and all ground connections. The wires I didn't replace I cut them back a couple inches and crimped on new ends. after time the ends of the copper wires get corroded from moisture and heat then get poor current through them causing more stress on the system. Also I ran all new stator, rectifier wires (one gauge bigger). Then straight wired the r/r to the battery using a 30 amp inline fuse on the positive side. So it doesn't have any resistance like when it was going through the fuse box. For a little extra protection I added a cpu fan strapped to the r/r and a koso volt meter to be able to monitor my electrical system at all times.(I could tell when there were any problems with the system before it fried exspensive parts). In short all new wires, components and clean/ replace all connections and cut off the bike in traffic if you are sitting still for more tha 5 minutes. Hope this makes sense. I've had not a single problem withstalls or electrical after I did this. Rode that bike for two years straight as my main transportation.