2000 F4 problem
#1
2000 F4 problem
Hi peeps
Recently bought my first cbr 600 2000 reg
Had a few problems over a couple of days.
My bike decided to cut out when i reved it slightly and then wouldent
Start i ended up draining the battery trying so gave it a bump and it
Fired straight away.seem to ride fine turned it off and it started a few times
No probs.i gave it a rev and it repeted the problem and would not start but turned until battery died.yet again bumped straight away would really appreciate any ideas or advice on what could be my problem??
She has 25000 on the clock but is fully serviced to that millage
Recently bought my first cbr 600 2000 reg
Had a few problems over a couple of days.
My bike decided to cut out when i reved it slightly and then wouldent
Start i ended up draining the battery trying so gave it a bump and it
Fired straight away.seem to ride fine turned it off and it started a few times
No probs.i gave it a rev and it repeted the problem and would not start but turned until battery died.yet again bumped straight away would really appreciate any ideas or advice on what could be my problem??
She has 25000 on the clock but is fully serviced to that millage
#2
#3
Well from the way it sounds you have a charging issue. I actually had a similar situation myself when my voltage regulator went.
My two cents here
Remove your battery and let it complete a SLOW charge. Helps to recondition it. If you dont have a good battery charger then drop it off at cycle gear or a decent auto parts store and they will do it for you.
If your battery is bad they will let you know.
If you have a good battery then install back into your bike and start it up and let it run for a few minutes. Get a voltage meter that reads dc volts and see if you have at least 13.5- 14 volts (Volatge may vary)
If you do your charging system is fine
If not.....
Check all electrical connections first. Don't touch them and say the are ok. Diconnect them and look for melting, dicoloration, and feel for weak or burnt spots in the wires.
Most commonly it seems that your regulator is goin to be the issue but don't buy crap until you know for sure.
Start with your stator. On the left side engine cover theres 3 wires coming out. Youll need your tank off to make access to the clear or yellowish plug. What you will do here with a voltage meter is test your stator. First take your Digital voltage meter and select ohms. Check in between each terminal and verify that the resistance is the same. If so then pull the plug to the outside of the frame and lightly set your tank back on and hook it up so you can start your bike. With the plug exposed you will use your multimeter (select AC voltage), to check for voltage. Connect your negative lead to ground (battery post best) and positive lead to each of the 3 terminal to the staor one at a time. You should see ac voltage being produced (exact amount eludes me at the moment) but verify that its close to the same amount on all 3 terminals.
If so your stator is good and your battery is good then signs point to 2 things wiring or Regulator rectifier. It rectifies the ac voltage and returns a pleasant charge back to your battery.
Your rectifier is under your rear cowl directly behind where your right buttcheek sits while riding. Remover your rear cowl and diconnect the rectifier its the furthest back and is a plastic box with some gel packing on the back. Take your ohmeter and make sure your wires have low resistance from the stator connector to the rectifier connector. The 3 from the stator are the same color. Restance should be .1 to .4 nothing high. Also check from the postive terminal to the rectifier connector. I think its black and red or black and something. One lead on the battery positve terminal and just check each terminal.
If you have a mutimeter you can test all 3 diodes in the rectifier but if your done all this testing and wiring is good then just buy a rectifier lol.
I suggest electro sport in california. My own opinion.. hope it doesnt offend any one but their rectifier is a great upgrade over our stock one with an aluminum housing with cooling fins and and a full year warranty. They also sell stators as well and ship VERY quick. If not OEM honda is not bad. I have electrosport on mine.
If you need anymore help let me know. Hope this was helpful
My two cents here
Remove your battery and let it complete a SLOW charge. Helps to recondition it. If you dont have a good battery charger then drop it off at cycle gear or a decent auto parts store and they will do it for you.
If your battery is bad they will let you know.
If you have a good battery then install back into your bike and start it up and let it run for a few minutes. Get a voltage meter that reads dc volts and see if you have at least 13.5- 14 volts (Volatge may vary)
If you do your charging system is fine
If not.....
Check all electrical connections first. Don't touch them and say the are ok. Diconnect them and look for melting, dicoloration, and feel for weak or burnt spots in the wires.
Most commonly it seems that your regulator is goin to be the issue but don't buy crap until you know for sure.
Start with your stator. On the left side engine cover theres 3 wires coming out. Youll need your tank off to make access to the clear or yellowish plug. What you will do here with a voltage meter is test your stator. First take your Digital voltage meter and select ohms. Check in between each terminal and verify that the resistance is the same. If so then pull the plug to the outside of the frame and lightly set your tank back on and hook it up so you can start your bike. With the plug exposed you will use your multimeter (select AC voltage), to check for voltage. Connect your negative lead to ground (battery post best) and positive lead to each of the 3 terminal to the staor one at a time. You should see ac voltage being produced (exact amount eludes me at the moment) but verify that its close to the same amount on all 3 terminals.
If so your stator is good and your battery is good then signs point to 2 things wiring or Regulator rectifier. It rectifies the ac voltage and returns a pleasant charge back to your battery.
Your rectifier is under your rear cowl directly behind where your right buttcheek sits while riding. Remover your rear cowl and diconnect the rectifier its the furthest back and is a plastic box with some gel packing on the back. Take your ohmeter and make sure your wires have low resistance from the stator connector to the rectifier connector. The 3 from the stator are the same color. Restance should be .1 to .4 nothing high. Also check from the postive terminal to the rectifier connector. I think its black and red or black and something. One lead on the battery positve terminal and just check each terminal.
If you have a mutimeter you can test all 3 diodes in the rectifier but if your done all this testing and wiring is good then just buy a rectifier lol.
I suggest electro sport in california. My own opinion.. hope it doesnt offend any one but their rectifier is a great upgrade over our stock one with an aluminum housing with cooling fins and and a full year warranty. They also sell stators as well and ship VERY quick. If not OEM honda is not bad. I have electrosport on mine.
If you need anymore help let me know. Hope this was helpful
#4
Thanks very much dude now u mention power she is fitted with a set of oxford heated grips when i bought the bike i noticed anless i was riding along with revs they wont turn on when sat idleing is this a feature that heated grips have so you dont leave them on or could this be a good sign its my battery thats screwed??thanks again
#5
I don't have much experience with heated grips. I would assume they have a switch because you wouldnt want them on all the time and it seems really unlikely that they would turn on and off with bike rpms. When you reinstall your battery diconnnect anything extra such as the grips or any cell phone chargers you might have installed.
#6
...I suggest electro sport in california. My own opinion.. hope it doesnt offend any one but their rectifier is a great upgrade over our stock one with an aluminum housing with cooling fins and and a full year warranty. They also sell stators as well and ship VERY quick. If not OEM honda is not bad. I have electrosport on mine...
#7
Shes been left since sunday now over my dads just put the battery on a decent charger that informs you iv theres a problem with the battery before that she started straight away with sound of no struggle from battery once iddled for abit it seems to cut out pretty much every time i blip the throttle and then seem ro restart but not everytime she very grouchy on the throttle and also noticed the headlights dimming and brightning on idle and also when revving seems alot worse now
#8
Well bud all i can say is start troubleshooting. It sounds like you arent charging. You'll have to be a little more detailed with your infor such as lenth of time, temperature, etc. It's hard to help through a com lol.
gotcbr, typically i do normally agree that oem is the best route. Unfortunatley my local Honda was slightly more expensive (not enough to really matter), and they would have been a week out on delivery to the store.
gotcbr, typically i do normally agree that oem is the best route. Unfortunatley my local Honda was slightly more expensive (not enough to really matter), and they would have been a week out on delivery to the store.
#9
FWIW, I would use the Electrosport unit if that Honda R/R was not avail but not simply b/c of price dif.
Last edited by gotcbr; 05-30-2012 at 03:20 PM. Reason: additional content
#10
Yea i understand totally appreciate ghe help dude battery has been diagnosed good today got a mate whos guna start the meter readings he seems to think its the r r aswell will post the outcome hopefully have her back up and running good soon
Last edited by gotcbr; 05-31-2012 at 12:20 PM. Reason: fix quote