2000 cbr600 problem
#11
Today's lower octanes are much cleaner, etc, than yrs past. Its fine to run the 89 in your F4. Personally, I try to avoid any type of fuel that has detergents or additives that aren't necessary. Too, I try to stay w/ big name stations. Often times, the no-name places will have many additives that stretch the fuel.
Good luck w/ your hesitation problem. Once diagnosed, it shouldn't be hard fix. My rectifier went out last yr & was a real pain til I finally figured out it was the cause.
Good luck w/ your hesitation problem. Once diagnosed, it shouldn't be hard fix. My rectifier went out last yr & was a real pain til I finally figured out it was the cause.
#13
Hesitation issues
Hey everyone, this is my first post. I just got my bike, its a 2000 cbr 600 f4. I love it so far, but one problem is after a bit of riding, once the bike rides for a bit (about an hour), I get an idling problem. The bike will be a bit hesitant until about 3000 rpm and then it drives fine. The temperature is normal, and I had the battery changed not too long ago. Im currently running 89 octane, i used to run 91 but i thought it would go away with a lower octane. Anyways I think its something electrical, i dont think its anything to do with the carbs, as it would be like that when its cold as well. Anyways do you guys have any ideas what it may be??? Thanks
Mike
Mike
#14
well 76 has 100 at the pump and i wouldnt use boosters,theyre a joke,if it says up to 7 points it means .7 so if you use 91 it jumps to 91.7 if you lucky,boosters also breaks up junk in you fuel system then puts it through your carbs which is no good
Last edited by awest696; 01-18-2010 at 10:32 AM. Reason: finish sentence
#15
#16
I am having the exact same issues. I have put in new spark plugs, new K&N Air Filter, New Water Sensor (can remember the official name of it, it's on the radiator), and I have burped the system until I saw no more air bubbles. The only thing I have not done is synced the carbs and went with a higher octane gas. Has anyone solved this issue? I'm about to drain all the coolant and put fresh new coolant in. I don't think it's the charging system, because the bike fires right back up. Is there a recall on this at all? Anyone get a clear definite fix for this yet? This is driving me nuts, it makes it seem like you are a beginner, not being able to pull off in first gear or riding the clutch as you pull off!
#17
I'm having the issue too and have just been dealing with it. My bike is in the shop for an unrelated issue. I'm going to try to adjust my idle screw to have the bike idle a little higher. What is your bike idling at normally and when it feels like it's going to die?
Also I have done a coolant flush and it didn't affect it at all...it could be the fan but I'm going to try adjusting the idle first before going to that.
Also I have done a coolant flush and it didn't affect it at all...it could be the fan but I'm going to try adjusting the idle first before going to that.
#18
I had this issue when I first bought my bike. I fought with it for months. One of my buddy's suggested a new battery even though my battery was testing out fine.
A new battery completely fixed the problem for me. My thoughts are that the battery is fine when not under continuous large loads by itself (i.e. starting, running over 3k rpms, ect.) However, when you stop at a light and the bike is really hot, the available amps from the battery drop just below what is needed to operate and it starts to choke. Then, when it stalls, you are able to start again because the battery had a second to level out and the bike runs again.
Not sure if this is precisely correct (Being a mechanical engineer I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous ), but it worked for me.
A new battery completely fixed the problem for me. My thoughts are that the battery is fine when not under continuous large loads by itself (i.e. starting, running over 3k rpms, ect.) However, when you stop at a light and the bike is really hot, the available amps from the battery drop just below what is needed to operate and it starts to choke. Then, when it stalls, you are able to start again because the battery had a second to level out and the bike runs again.
Not sure if this is precisely correct (Being a mechanical engineer I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous ), but it worked for me.
#19
#20