CBR 600F4 1999 - 2000 Honda CBR 600F4 Forum

1999 CBR600F4 - no spark at any of the 4 plugs

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  #21  
Old 04-30-2021, 02:32 PM
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did you try turning around the zener diode?
 
  #22  
Old 04-30-2021, 02:49 PM
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@Ricky Rojan That's a message from about 5 years ago. Not sure they're still working on it. Welcome to the forum though. Thanks for posting up. Don't hesitate to introduce yourself in the New Member area.
 
  #23  
Old 05-29-2022, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by David43Abq
FINALLY !!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's ALIVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
anyone who ever has a no spark issue on a Honda motorcycle, please read !!!!!!!
There is a diode in the switch base of the ignition switch. IF that diode pops for any reason you will have a no spark/no fuel pump issue. The value of the diode is 3.9v 0.5watt part number NTE5007A. My 99 will be back on the road soon !!!!!!!! yay ... btw, it's a friggin .39 cent part ...
so my 99 cbr is doing the same but I've replaced the ignition switch. Would that still be the problem? Please help 9125062502
 
  #24  
Old 06-26-2022, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Burntfruitloops
so my 99 cbr is doing the same but I've replaced the ignition switch. Would that still be the problem? Please help 9125062502
I also am in this boat I've checked and have a 9v value on pink into icm. Still notta. I started a new thread on the topic
 
  #25  
Old 11-06-2022, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by derek600f4
thanks for finding that out. i have had the same problem for the last mounth. it has cost me alot of money trying to change out parts like you have. i will give that a try and let yall know
Originally Posted by David43Abq
Update: As some of you may know, ummnn .. some of you may not know .. Honda incorperates a diode inside the ignition switch that when properly working, it drops the 12v battery voltage to 9vdc thru the pink wire into the ICM. I've found the diode shorted and hence allowing full battery voltage to the ICM. According to Honda this is an anti-theft device. While I soldered in a new diode, my bike still has no spark at the plugs. I'm thinking this is a proprietary part Honda uses. Even tho I matched up the diode by appearance, size and value (far as I could tell by the old one), still no spark .. damnit .... heh ..
hi David I have the exact problem,but I replaced the resistor (diode ). ..new icm/cdi..new ignition,plugs,etc etc..still no spark..everything work fine before I took carbs off to clean jets etc...harness is mint .everything has power etc..do u think maybe stator n or pickup?I'm confused.
.99/2000 CBR600F-X..PC35
 
  #26  
Old 11-06-2022, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mech73
hi David I have the exact problem,but I replaced the resistor (diode ). ..new icm/cdi..new ignition,plugs,etc etc..still no spark..everything work fine before I took carbs off to clean jets etc...harness is mint .everything has power etc..do u think maybe stator n or pickup?I'm confused.
.99/2000 CBR600F-X..PC35
Stator problems will just affect battery-charging. As long as battery has sufficient voltage when cranking, stator's not causing any issues.


So ah... what's actual voltage did you measure at pink wire going into ECU connector?

There's other causes of no-spark:

- what voltage do you measure at each ignition coil?

- do you have BAS plugged in properly?

- do you have power from kill-switch to engine-stop relay's activation coil? volts=???

- do you have continuity to chassis-ground at engine-stop relay's activation coil other side?
 

Last edited by dannoxyz; 11-06-2022 at 07:09 PM.
  #27  
Old 12-16-2022, 06:38 PM
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Default Still nothing

Anyone ever come up with anything other than the diode? I've tried the diode and nothing changed. I eventually swapped the motor but would love to get this one running for a kart or other random toy.
 
  #28  
Old 12-16-2022, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by muffinman86
Anyone ever come up with anything other than the diode? I've tried the diode and nothing changed. I eventually swapped the motor but would love to get this one running for a kart or other random toy.
Did you verify proper installation of diode and got proper output voltage?

Did you test and measure other components that can cause no-spark?

Originally Posted by dannoxyz
Stator problems will just affect battery-charging. As long as battery has sufficient voltage when cranking, stator's not causing any issues.


So ah... what's actual voltage did you measure at pink wire going into ECU connector?

There's other causes of no-spark:

- what voltage do you measure at each ignition coil?

- do you have BAS plugged in properly?

- do you have power from kill-switch to engine-stop relay's activation coil? volts=???

- do you have continuity to chassis-ground at engine-stop relay's activation coil other side?
p
 
  #29  
Old 12-17-2022, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dannoxyz
Did you verify proper installation of diode and got proper output voltage?

Did you test and measure other components that can cause no-spark?



p
Yes i verified proper diode placement. My original was intact but to be safe I bought 2 to verify it wasn't the problem. Was getting right around the 9 volts at pink wire. Bought a 2nd control module with no difference. Also had proper voltage at coil hot. Not sure what is causing. PO said he was riding the bike and shut it off at his destination, then he came back and it would no longer start. Compression is perfect across all cylinders. I have traced the entire harness and there's no breaks. 🤔
 
  #30  
Old 12-17-2022, 10:54 PM
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Well, wire can be broken internally and not show any faults on outside. We'll have you test and measure every wire with multimeter later.

1. how have you verified no-spark?

2. is there petrol flow to carbs? as in measured fuel-pump flow for 10-sec? How much did you collect?

3. disconnect ignition-module, key ON, measure voltage at black wire terminal at connector. Volts=???

4. measure resistance to chassis-ground of grn wire at connector. ohms = ???

5. measure resistance to chassis-ground of lite-grn wire at connector. ohms = ??
 

Last edited by dannoxyz; 12-17-2022 at 11:13 PM.


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