Well, the only thing that's changed is I've got a new battery I put on this morning... Motobatt YTX9-BS... now, this is meant to be fine with my bike and a cracking quality battery replacing the cheap crap I had in it beforehand, BUT just wondering, this battery delivers 10.5Ah instead of the 8.0Ah my Haynes Manual says for the battery...

Could this be causing a problem? None of the other fuses have gone... just this one... and with it go the indicators, all dashboard lights/dials... and trip computer. Put new one in 3 times today... 1 went within 2 minutes, 1 lasted for a few hours, however, I've noticed it when I tank it, and I mean tank it from 2nd gear... noticed it seems to go then, might be coincidence?

Either way, any ideas, could a battery do this to one particular fuse? And does this 10.5A delivery fo the new battery make a difference? Can't think of anything else, checked all the wiring it's fine... and like I say, 3 fuses, all lasting different times BUT I would say they've gone when tanking it.

Obviously seen the other threads on this... but all seem to have variations on a theme on this one... plus, mine isn't when I'm actually using say a light or something... it seems to tie in when I'm really accelerating hard... maybe something lose... problem is, can't find anything :-(

 

I would check the wiring harness and your connections again, it sounds like some wires are shorting out but its at the early stages that's why some fuses will last longer than others. In the back of your manual look at the wiring diagram and trace all the wires coming from your tail section. Off the top of my head its a black /brown wires, green /yellow, ground, orange, orange /white, blue, blue/white. I would start there, if you or the previous owner have wired any aftermarket lights I would check those first. Hope it helps.


Oh and to answer your question. I don't think the battery would blow fuses but I have been wrong in the past.

 

There is no problem using that battery...current (Amps) is something that a device pull and the providing device has a capacity to deliver. You battery has a capacity to deliver 10.5 amps, but in a sistem that only pulls 8 amps, it will only deliver 8 amps. You battery is just better than one with 8 amps and will perform better.

Following CJardine post, also try move wires with a stick until the fuse blows, that way you can relate the movement in the wire you were touching with a short (fuse blown).

Don't forget to keep the new battery charged!

 

Going to check then double check all the wiring likwe you say in the rear box as this has LED'son it and the connections so, I may have jolted something yesterday. Will unplug, then plug all back in again :-)

 

This would be a pain in the behind, and also potentially leave the wiring open for more problems down the road, but on cars when I have a fuse blowing for a random reason, I put a separate fuse into each leg that the "main" fuse powers. That way you have a better idea where your problem is. Even if you didn't do that, you could, say, put a fuse in the wire(s) that go to the tail, and one on the powers to the front, then you would know whether its under the seat, or a problem up front.

I would only do that as a last resort though, because again it will leave more wires tampered with, potentially causing more issues in the future.

Good luck finding it!!

 

Right, update, as one of the brake lights wasn't working on the rear, I took out, cleaned the connection out, WD40, wipe off and slotted the bulb back in... hey presto both rear brake lights work now. So, double checked all the connectors, put some leccy tape around any connectors for the resisters I presume for the rear LED's and wrapped up nicely in the rear under the seat. Put everything back on... lets see what happens. Couldn't see any lose wires though so... fingers crossed, Will be going out in 30 minutes ;-)

 

Perfect, opened Ric up multiple times over 10k rpm and ran sweet as a nut... so, looks like wires were touching under hard acceleration and shorting something. Cheers guys!

 

alright glad it was easy

 

if it happens again, try checking any aftermarket lighting or anything hooked up to the lighting/accesory circuit. i had that problem a couple times. once was due to my licence plate bolts with built in leds. the back side of the bolt was pinched against my rear signal, causing it to short. fixed it by relocating the rear signals. another time was a loose connection in the front signal, as i have an aftermarket flush mount 3 wire setup, and one of the conectors was loose, causing it to spark itself out.

 

When I replaced my indicators this happened to me, I replaced the 10a fuse with a 15 and never had a problem again, not sure what the problem was in the first place but seems fine now