If you are new to soldering, do yourself a favor and watch a few videos on the proper method of inline splicing. Soldering is pretty easy, but if you don't do it right, you will most certainly regret it. Troubleshooting intermittent electrical issues can ruin your day. Learn what a cold solder joint is, so you never make one. :-)

 

Thanks, I have learned the hard way a few times now unfortunately, I'm not at all anywhere close to knowing how to go in and diagnose any electrical issues. I'm absolutely certain there is a short or bad connection somewhere in my harness, my stator plug melted a few weeks ago, it has been rewired since bypassing a plug all together by my mechanic. Haven't had any melting since, but a few wires that I have tested read at 11.8v. I haven't ridden the bike for more than a few minutes in probably three weeks, but have had it running here and there for a few standing still in the garage. Maybe I should check my battery, I've heard a insufficiently charged battery can cause the reading I'm getting as well.

 

So, I'm in a weird spot that has left me slightly stuck.
I decided against making new connectors to avoid any issues with weak connections or having to 100% seal them up waterproof. Also, had a very difficult time finding ANY connectors in general.

This is where I'm at. All connections were made to the corresponding wires the oem tach was connected to. But I'm getting readings of 2700 approx at idle. Which seems to me to be double what it should be. With the engine running I'm getting 12.7v from the power and ground on the back of the meter. I don't know what could be wrong the needle stays very stable there is no jumping or erratic movement. It moves very stable as I go through revs it's just reading WAY higher than it should.


Dumb question, could this be due to the tach belonging to a 750cc engine? They're both in line fours..

 

I actually put a 600 katana tach on my F2 back in my racing days. Dont remember exactly how I wired it but the first time at idle it was about 1000rpms but when I got it to the track and rode it, the tach read way too high, the tach actually was pegged. So when I came home from the races I redid something and it work properly. The one thing I do remember is I had a wire going straight to the coil or coils, cant remember exactly. I know this probably doesnt help you but I figured I would put my 2 cents in.

 

The cc wouldn't have anything to do with it. But the fact it's a different bike might. The signal that it gets from wherever it picks up the speed is probably different.



If it takes it from the coil, maybe it's the fact that your bike is running in wasted spark and it's from a bike that's coil-on-plug?


What bike are the gauges from?

 

91 gsx750f katana

I've somewhat gotten it figure out but haven't been able to try it. The katana I'm assuming gets a signal from the brain, and the f3 gets it from the ignition (pulser?). So I'm going to wire it to one of the coils and it will be getting a signal from only two cylinders to cut the rpms it's registering in half. So I hope ..