VRR 3rd party or oem?
 

98 600F
Battery starting/charging problem?
After a decent ride out,stopped and battery seems flat bike won't start,go for just a couple of mins,stop and bike starts ok.
Starts after being sat in garage all night..............
Going to replace the regulator/rectifier
Checking ebay for replacement,cheap Chinese to OEM quite a difference in price as you would expect.

So 3rd party or oem?

So just took it out for a shortish run,fired up ok and off we went.
1hr later and thankfully just as I approach my garage the bike just cuts out.

Life is in the battery but barely turns over if at all,lights work and seem quite bright,dash lights are also nice n bright.

Does it sound like the VRR?

You need a Clymer, Haynes,or Honda shop manual that tells you how to check the electrical system and components, before you start wasting money replacing parts that dont need replaced. I wouldnt waste money on a cheap chinese one, a brand new OEM replacement would probably last a while or some people get a used GSXR or R1 from ebay, way cheaper and more durable. I cant remember which years to use but its here somewhere on this site.

Friend had a spare but now there's no life in the system at all.
Even when I tried a jump from my car :(

Will take it to my mechanic and let him sort it.
Friend had very similar problem which is why they have spare VRR,turned out it was their stator.

Turned out to be a fuse of all things.
The main one atop the solenoid.

New problem,not sure if it's related to this old one??????

It's kinda weird......

This is when riding
Battery goes flat when using lights,there is a charge being sent to it but it goes flat.
Turn the lights off and battery gets charged.

When garaged
If light switch is on battery goes flat.
Light switch in off position charge stays in the battery.

Any ideas or where to check etc etc?

Unplug R/R. Three yellows ? Check for continuity between them. There should be none.

Reg Rec is fried by the sound of it......

Sounds like a short somewhere. I'd disconnect the battery and see if there is continuity to ground from the + headlight wire. Try with the switch open then closed to see what side of the switch its on. If it were the R/R it would discharge whether the switch were open or closed.

Mechanic did a small test.

Renewed all connections going to R/R,tested with voltmeter ( male connections that go into R/R ) and all seemed ok.
Lights off,engine running = decent charge going to battery.
Lights on,engine running = no charge going to battery.
He reckons R/R is knackered.

M&P have R/R on sale,£20 down from £60 so will try that 1st but I think it's a short somewhere but I'm no mechanic......

My mechanic,as usual,is spot on.
Problem seems to be fixed with the new R/R.

Don't know why I thought otherwise lol