The Chain should have about a half inch to one inch of slack in the middle. YOu have to loosen the rear axle nut and then adjust the to adjustment screws. Make sure you keep them even. The clicking is probably a chain that needs to be oiled but look at the wear indicator or the rear swingarm to see if chain needs to be replaced. I am changing sprockets on mine tonight -1/+2 520 conversion. Not a good setup for alot of highway but will have lots of low end

 

Since I have no idea yet as to how to read this thing, would someone mind taking a look for me?

Here is a picture of the chain indicator...



It looks like it needs to be replaced, assuming the second, longer vertical line indicates that. Then again, I don't know how to read it. Is there a second longer vertical line that will become visable when the chain needs replaced, or does it need replaced now?

Thanks for any help guys, also...

If I do need to adjust the chain, I have an idea, but if someone wouldn't mind walking me through it - thanks a million.

EDIT: I've looked at a manual, and according to the manual, I need to replace my chain, eh? If I'm reading that right, the arrow is beyond the "red zone" and beyond even the, "replace" mark... right?

 

my chain in the same condition. your chain def needs replalced. im going with a stunt sprocket set. but the 520 conversion kit on ebay should also sell sproclets with stock amount of teeth if you are worried about highway rpms
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...spagenameZWDVW

 

chain definitely needs to be replaced

 

my f3 is -1/+5 and it still runs real smooth on the highway. About 6-7k at 75-80mph! But has a whole lot of power off the line!

 

I gotta have a better ratio than that. It's common for traffic to do 90-95 on the Interstate around here. And on most of the trips I'll be taking will be on that interstate. Last trip I took, in sixth gear speedo read 95MPH and was at about 5500RPM's. Very comfortable. She gets around real nice and in a hurry just the way she is. If you missed my first post, I'm an OEM freak. I like everything to be stock.

Would someone mind explaining exactly what I'm looking for as far as the wear indicator goes? Everyone says it needs replaced, but for some reason doesn't elaborate as to how I might be able to know that in the future.

Is it the line with the arrows on it that I'm supposed to be looking at? From what I understand, the line with the arrows should be sitting ahead (to the left) of the line the reads, "New." Is this correct? Whats throwing me off is those two other damn lines... do they mean anything? What the heck are they there for? What do they do?

Is my assumption correct about reading the indicator? Thanks for the help, guys. Also, what difference am I going to feel when I replace this chain?

 

Holy crap... at 5500 in 6th I'm probably cruising at 70Mph.

 

Hmm, really? Maybe I'm over-remembering it. I know I was doing 95 in sixth very comfortably and the bike wasn't howling. I could've swore it was around 5500, maybe 6500 - in any case, the bike was purring and that's the ratio I want to keep.

Any ideas about the chain and the indicator?

 

The lne with the two arrows is the one that you should be looking at the other marks are just to help with alignment. When I tighten my chain I use a piece of string and use it to measure from the swing arm bolt to the axle on both sides they should be equal distance on both sides. This will help the bike track straight.

As far as the gears go if you are going to travel use the stock gears you will have better mileage.

 

Thanks Jar! Nice tip.