Where will the digital potentiometer get it readings from? This sounds interesting, I would be curious to know how this would work.

I believe at 220 it was somewhere in the neighborhood of 2600 ohms. I can check when I get home, I still have everything rigged up on the kitchen table. The wife is not too pleased with my science experiment though so I may not have too many days to work on it. I could get a restance value every 5 or 10 deg if you need.

 

Great, that would help. Because the voltage is going to vary on how hot the engine is. I think that would be a good trigger for the digital resistor to move the wipe up and down. This in turn would vary the correct resistance on the f4i gauge end. Is this right?

 

Wonder if we could dissect the thermo unit and replace the thermistor with one that would vary the resistance properly for the F4i gauge?

It is sounding better and better to just buy the 900rr sensor from the frickin stealership.

 

I wasn't gonna say anything else and just let you guys tinker, but that's what I'm thinkin.



edit: The risk of breaking off the temp sensor when pulling the original out is what I'd be trying to engineer away.

 

Well my thought was to not have to pull out the stock F3 sensor at all. Putting something like this converter will cost like $3-$5 instead of pulling the tank, airbox, carbs, and paying $40-$50 on the 900rr sensor. You also run the risk of snapping the sensor off from what I've heard. It's probably over tightened at the factory....

Once we have all the technical stuff down, it'd be very easy to replicate.

I'm a geek!! I love this shi*t!

 

Also, is there a risk of these resistors getting too hot and wreaking havoc? By havoc I mean melting wires or just plain failing prematurely.

I know the resistors for my LED blinkers get pretty hot just from 30 second intervals of use far away in the tail from any hot engine components, and there would be constant use on these resistors with the key on.

 

The voltage on this resistor is going to be extremely low. It'll be less than 5 volts at statup. And the way it works is it will decrease in voltage as the engine heats up. With your blinkers that is a constant 12v.

 

Ah I see.

 

for this setup, wires getting too hot and what not should be negligible.
but if worst comes to worst, heatsinks would easily do the trick.

for this whole experiment to be worthwhile and easy, it almost has to be cutting the wire and doing inline, otherwise it's wayy to much work IMO

 

Well that was my thinking...