I have used one of those fluke 87's before. Very nice. But they are damn expensive and hard to find used at a good price.

Fortunately I a mechanic, and have a fluke that reads peak voltage. For a little update if anyone is interested I tested the signal wire and had 11.3-12.9v running through it, depending on throttle position.

Iv gone back and re-tried everything I had done already, just to make sure. Still no positive results. The only way I can get the tach to read is by hooking it up to the yellow wire from the pulse generator. The problem as I said before, at 900 rpm idle...the tach reads 12-13k rpms.

What should I be setting the pulse pickup as? I can choose between 1 and 12. I would assume that 2 would be correct since the f3 is a "wasted spark" ignition system. Although I have tried all 1-12 settings with no change in tach response, regardless of if it is hooked up to the coil, spark plug wire, or pulse generator.

I am about to fix this gauge with a 12lbs sledge, and be done with it.

Another problem I have notice, I took the bike around the block yesterday to do a couple tests, and noticed that although the tach doesn't work, the speedometer does. The problem is, like the tach it reads incorrect. When I am doing approximately 30mph, the speedo is reading upwards of 125mph, "Well officer..my speedo said..haha"

Now I am not using the magnet pickup that came with the gauges, I am using the speed sensor on the f3. I have the choice of changing the wheel parameters, but am unsure of what they should be. I am running a stock rear wheel, but have a 180 instead of a 160 if that would make a diff.

Any advice whatsoever is more than welcome, as I am getting to the point of wanting to end this project with a gallon of gas and a stick match!

Keep you chin up. I am sure tire size will effect your speedo but not that much. As for the tach... No clue. I guess just make sure the gauge is set up properly. My gauge can be set for 2/4 stroke and 1-12 cylinders. So just double check. I don't know what the wasted spark is, or how many cylinders your bike is but I have a 4 cylinder bike so I would select 4. And if I had a wasted spark I would try selecting 5 cylinders.

Did you make any progress or have success getting this resolved?

Hey there. Alot of aftermarket Tachs require a DC SQUARE wave signal. IDK if our ignition produces a SQUARE or the more natural CURVED wave as a Tach signal. I've had to buy tach adapters in the past that SQUARE up the signal wave. Thats my $.02. Good luck.

Oh yeah. Furthermore, popular ignition companies like MSD have built in Tach outputs that generate a DC Square wave, for use with modern tachometers like from AEM. They also sell Tach Adapters.

That is some really good info! As I mentioned before I am having the same tach issue. If some can post the part number they used to fix their issue and the type of tach they were using that would be a huge bonus!!

This, is the exact conclusion I have come too. I need some kind of adapter to change the signal wave. The f3 does not have to correct signal wave. If I hook the tach up to my Harley, it works perfect. Also it works if I hook it up to my truck. If anyone could point me in the right direction, it would be fantastic.

As for an update. I have done a lot of small things, but have been extremely busy at work for the last couple months, and have not had time to make any big improvements to the project. I hope I can get that changed soon. The weather is starting to get nice again!!

http://mallory-ignition.com/fuel-inj...r-adapter.html I've used these, as they are the least expensive. However, never used one on the F3. I still run the stock gauge.

I sent you a PM, but if I am not getting any signal to my tach would this cure my issue?