running funny
#1
running funny
So im going to describe my issue as best as I can. First of all when I first start my bike it seems to run about 1k with the choke on full. I have to keep it on for about 20 min, little by little taking the choke off to keep it at 1.5k. By the way i live in southwest Florida. Its like 100 during the day and 80 at night. If i take it off early it runs at 1k. It feels like it isnt as strong at idle. It will still take off like a bullet from a gun! When it is warmed up and there is no choke at idle it will be about 1.4k. But if i give it a little gas it has been stalling out. What do you think the problem is? Thanks for your help.
#2
SWFL isn't the problem (I'm from the Fort), I've had a few carb'd bikes run well down here despite constantly riding in the afternoon showers. Off the cuff, I'm going to guess its a carb sync issue due to a somewhat erratic and weak idle you're describing. The carbs could probably use a good cleaning and sync. Does the bike lung around 2-4k RPMs when you take off?
#3
#6
I finally cleaned the carbs. They were not bad at all. I reinstalled them. The bike idles much more smoothly. It still runs string. I have new issue now. When I slow down to a stop and take it out of gear it will almost die out if I don't give it a little gas. Then it runs normal until the next stop. Then repeat. Any ideas here?
#7
#8
#9
Going by your initial problem of erratic rpm's it sounds like there may have been a vacuum leak that you took care of when you removed/reinstalled your carbs. If that is the case, they will likely need to be re-synced as they were probably synced while there was a vacuum leak.
When syncing our F3's, the #3 is the master. Everything else is sync'd to it. While you are adjusting the others, the rpms could go all over the place. That is where the **** you are talking about comes into place. Get #4 sync'd to #3, adjust the idle **** back to 1,200. Sync #2, adjust the idle ****, Sync #1 rinse, repeat as necessary....
it's pretty easy, it's just tedious. You will have to go back and forth until they get completely dialed in properly. Important safety tip, always sync with an engine at operating temps. You can't do it on a cold engine.
Then after that is done, if your pilot screws may/may not need adjustment.
When syncing our F3's, the #3 is the master. Everything else is sync'd to it. While you are adjusting the others, the rpms could go all over the place. That is where the **** you are talking about comes into place. Get #4 sync'd to #3, adjust the idle **** back to 1,200. Sync #2, adjust the idle ****, Sync #1 rinse, repeat as necessary....
it's pretty easy, it's just tedious. You will have to go back and forth until they get completely dialed in properly. Important safety tip, always sync with an engine at operating temps. You can't do it on a cold engine.
Then after that is done, if your pilot screws may/may not need adjustment.
Last edited by hamlin6; 09-29-2014 at 09:31 AM.
#10
A couple other things I remembered since the caffeine is properly flowing through my system. With each tweak of a sync screw, give the throttle a quick blip. Also, and this is to help you protect your sanity, if a particular carb is out of sync with #3, don't try and correct it all at once. Make a small adjustment, blip the throttle, then move on to the next carb. If you try and do a full correction at once, you will wind up looking for the screwdriver that you threw across the yard in frustration. This is where the tedious part comes into play. :-)