Rejetting question
#1
#2
No need to rejet and a paper OEM element is best for that type of setup.
This is straight out of the shop manual. I'd be interested in how others would interpret this.
Would you read it as 1 and 2/4 (which is 1.5) turns out.
One to Two Quarter turns, meaning .25 to .5 turns out.
Japanese to English translation is funny sometimes.
This is straight out of the shop manual. I'd be interested in how others would interpret this.
Would you read it as 1 and 2/4 (which is 1.5) turns out.
One to Two Quarter turns, meaning .25 to .5 turns out.
Japanese to English translation is funny sometimes.
#3
When I bought my F3 it had a Yoshi slip on, stock jetting & oem air filter. I put a K&N air filter on it. It seemed to run about the same but had a flat spot around 5 or 6k (going on memory). I then installed a Dynojet kit. The difference was night and day. The bike was much more lively..Prob. not much power gain, but much more responsive. Look at the shape of the needles, plus you enlarge the vacuum hole, plus put new springs it. Carbs prob. getting 30% or more air with the high flow filter. This was the one mod that really made a noticeable differnce. I have -1, +3 sprockets, +2 ignition advancer, neither of these 2 mods did anything compared to cleaning and rejetting.....
#5
I dont remember. I did everything exactly as the instructions..Reassembled and never have touched them again..Been almost 2 years......It was my first time rejetting carbs. I was a little intimidated at first. I used a carb cleaning tutorial that I found on here somewhere. It made it quite painless. The biggest pain is the throttle cables. I accidentalt kinked my throtle return cable. Mt throttle doesnt snap shut quite as good as it used to. Take your time with those. I was impressed by the kit.
#6
#7
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