Rear brake stuck?!
#1
Rear brake stuck?!
Hi,
I'm new to the forum and this is my first post, YAY
I have recently bought a 1996 CBR 600 F-T.
I got it dirt cheap and I knew that it would need a little bit of work doing to it. Which is great, as I love a good project!!
First being that when on the centre stand I can't move the rear wheel. Also while pushing the bike around it is a bit of a struggle. I suspect that the rear brakes are slightly pinched on.
Anyone know how to remedy this or got any other suggestions as to what this is?
I know it's not stuck in gear as the neutral light is on and it is no different with the clutch in. I have some brake and chain cleaner, would that work?
Cheers guys,
I'm new to the forum and this is my first post, YAY
I have recently bought a 1996 CBR 600 F-T.
I got it dirt cheap and I knew that it would need a little bit of work doing to it. Which is great, as I love a good project!!
First being that when on the centre stand I can't move the rear wheel. Also while pushing the bike around it is a bit of a struggle. I suspect that the rear brakes are slightly pinched on.
Anyone know how to remedy this or got any other suggestions as to what this is?
I know it's not stuck in gear as the neutral light is on and it is no different with the clutch in. I have some brake and chain cleaner, would that work?
Cheers guys,
#2
oh new development bike was starting this morning, but late this afternoon it wouldn't start.
-buggerit-
so filed with petrol, then tried to start it and it just made a large bang (like a gunshot) backfire i suspect.
-buggerit-
so going to look at why that happened and why it won't start!!!
-buggerit-
so filed with petrol, then tried to start it and it just made a large bang (like a gunshot) backfire i suspect.
-buggerit-
so going to look at why that happened and why it won't start!!!
#3
man, your bike is AFU... just kidding. for the non start, did you check the petcock. i almost always immediately turn to fuel supply when i get a bike in the shop that wont start, then troubleshoot from there. for the rear brake, un bolt the caliper bolts and try and remove the caliper. it should take "a little" force to slide it off but not much. if it is completely stuck, you may have to pry it off. from there, you can try to flush the brake lines and bleed the system, checking for any kinks in the brake line. i have also seen brake lines collapse from the inside with no way to tell from the outside, but that is really rare. if your rear brake is done, i have one i can sell you for pretty cheap, but i doubt that is the case.
#4
thanks for that but another problem,
I have lost the only key to it!!! I am a massive tw@t!!!
Think it might have fallen out my pocket when I was at the pub, looked everywhere in the house, phoned the pub and the fuzz no sign.
But not to worry as the bike can't go out on the road yet for other reasons.
So the way I see it my options are:
1-Call a locksmith and hope that if i give him a blank honda key he has some magic tool to cut me a replacement from the lock.
2- change the fuel cap and ignition lock for another one with key (ebay or honda store?) and make loads of spares
3- just have a tantrum!! lol
I have lost the only key to it!!! I am a massive tw@t!!!
Think it might have fallen out my pocket when I was at the pub, looked everywhere in the house, phoned the pub and the fuzz no sign.
But not to worry as the bike can't go out on the road yet for other reasons.
So the way I see it my options are:
1-Call a locksmith and hope that if i give him a blank honda key he has some magic tool to cut me a replacement from the lock.
2- change the fuel cap and ignition lock for another one with key (ebay or honda store?) and make loads of spares
3- just have a tantrum!! lol
#5
Pull the ignition switch and take to a locksmith, they can fix it. The rear brakes, don't ride it until you fix the problem or you will warp the rotor. As above, pull the caliper and do a complete over haul or buy a new assembly and replace it (replacement is actually a cost-effective option and easier).
Anytime I get a new bike, I do a complete fluid change. i.e. oil, coolant, brakes, gas.
Save option #3 for work, GF relationships, etc. Bikes and maintenance are supposed to be FUN!
Anytime I get a new bike, I do a complete fluid change. i.e. oil, coolant, brakes, gas.
Save option #3 for work, GF relationships, etc. Bikes and maintenance are supposed to be FUN!
#6
I'd recommend doing a rebuild on the caliper.
#7
Pull the ignition switch and take to a locksmith, they can fix it. The rear brakes, don't ride it until you fix the problem or you will warp the rotor. As above, pull the caliper and do a complete over haul or buy a new assembly and replace it (replacement is actually a cost-effective option and easier).
Anytime I get a new bike, I do a complete fluid change. i.e. oil, coolant, brakes, gas.
Save option #3 for work, GF relationships, etc. Bikes and maintenance are supposed to be FUN!
Anytime I get a new bike, I do a complete fluid change. i.e. oil, coolant, brakes, gas.
Save option #3 for work, GF relationships, etc. Bikes and maintenance are supposed to be FUN!
Brilliant thanks for that, had a look at the back of the lock assembely. There are two bolts, but it looks like they require a tool unit that looks like a star (no its not a phillips scredriver!!!!)
the alternative is the one key i did have worked on the fuel cap which I CAN get off with some alan keys. If i whip that off could a locksmith fashion a key with that instead?
cheers guys
#8
Well, no, not made of money. When I was rebuilding my own rear caliper, I had a stuck hanger pin. I mean STUCK! lol I knew I was gonna shred it breaking it loose. I went onto ebay and was finding lots of complete assemblys (i.e. master, resevouir and caliper) for about $40-$75.
So, $30 for re-build + at least a couple of hours of time spent (no I'm not a professional mechanic just a good shade tree) justifies the cost of replacement vs repair.
I especially, keep in mind when I say that, that not all the readers of this forum are particularly mechanically apt or have all the tools/facilitys to do the job. I assume some of that from the nature of the questions that I reply to.
By the way, after doing the research on cost of replacement, I figured, "Nothing to lose." I had to use vice grips on the center of that pin to break it loose. Mauled it good, as predicted. Chucked it in my drill press and used a flat file and sandpaper to re-mill it. Saved the pin and didn't have to get a new one.
That doesn't diminish my argument though. Ebay can be a valuable resource to both the amateur and dedicated.
Ern
So, $30 for re-build + at least a couple of hours of time spent (no I'm not a professional mechanic just a good shade tree) justifies the cost of replacement vs repair.
I especially, keep in mind when I say that, that not all the readers of this forum are particularly mechanically apt or have all the tools/facilitys to do the job. I assume some of that from the nature of the questions that I reply to.
By the way, after doing the research on cost of replacement, I figured, "Nothing to lose." I had to use vice grips on the center of that pin to break it loose. Mauled it good, as predicted. Chucked it in my drill press and used a flat file and sandpaper to re-mill it. Saved the pin and didn't have to get a new one.
That doesn't diminish my argument though. Ebay can be a valuable resource to both the amateur and dedicated.
Ern
#10
that sucks man, for the rear brake, like i said, give it your best shot. your caliper may not be completely frozen. you may find that it is something really dumb once you get the whole thing off and get a good look at it. for the key thing, you will not be able to remove the gas cap without the key. even if you take the allen head bolts out, it will not come off because the gas cap is still locked on to the tank. your best bet is to get your ignition switch off and take it to a locksmith or a honda dealer and get them to make you a new key. if that doesnt work out for you, i also have a gas cap and ignition with a key for sale, seriously. I havent quite got the parts posted on ebay yet, and putting them on the forums is kind of a pain in the ***, but i will sell them really cheap to a fellow forum member/newbie. i was thinking 150 plus shipping (as cheap as i can get it) for the whole setup, thats rear brake caliper, line, reservoir, master cylinder and right rear set and the ignition switch and gas cap with a key. let me know if you are interested. jeason15@gmail.com
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